Help with installing viper 5706v | Page 2
We may earn a commission for products purchased through links on this page
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
I just bought a new daily driver and it came with an alarm/remote start that I would love to put in before winter. The car is a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS with a manual transmission (no factory alarm) and the alarm is a Viper 5706v. It came with a few extras too the guy said I would need to install it. Some sort of key bypass (dei 556u) and a battery back-up (dei 520t). It also came with a glass break sensor (dei 506t) and a 2 smaller piezo sirens.
Well I went to the local audio shop and to hook everything up they quoted me like half of what I paid for the car! Lol So I would like to try and install this myself. I’m pretty confused to be honest. Lol Mostly on what wires I need to be using from the alarms harnesses. Like I’ve found most the wires in my car already at the ignition and above the fuse box that I will need to use. I’m mostly confused on which wires from the alarms harnesses I need to be hooking up and which ones can I de-pin. I know alot of the wires won’t be used so if someone could help me with which wires I could just depin and get rid of all together that would help a ton. That way I can focus on what I actually need to be hooking up and start from there. I attached a couple pics of the alarm wiring diagram and my cars wiring diagram. Thanks for any help in advance!
-
20210911_170808.jpg
1.8 MB
Views: 588 -
Screenshot_20210824-222024_Chrome.jpg
231.4 KB
Views: 232
See less
See more
2
Reply
Save
Like
21 – 40 of 50 Posts
SSinstaller said:
On the main ignition harness all the red wires are 12v input, pink is ignition out, green is starter in, violet is starter out, and orange is accessory out.
Click to expand…
Thats what the manual says too, my problem is I don’t know where these are supposed to connect to in the car though.
I guess I just dont understand the terminology. So do all the fused red wires just go to a constant 12v? Because I thought they each got hooked up to different ignition/accessory wires for their 12v.
The green and violet wires make sense (connect to each side of my black/red (+) starter wire at ignition harness)
But then I also don’t understand what the orange and pink wires do exactly. You say pink is ignition out and orange is accessory out. So do I just connect the pink wire to my ignition 1 wire (green +) at ignition harness and the orange wire to accessory 1 wire (blue/red +) at my ignition harness?
See less
See more
Reply
Save
Like
SSinstaller said:
Defrost is yellow/red at the hvac controls. It is a negative trigger. The diagram doesn’t show if it’s momentary or latched so you’ll have to test for that.
Click to expand…
I have no idea what any of this means. Lol I found the wire at the hvac controls but how do I test it to see if its momentary or latched? And how does it get connected to the alarm? Do just I just connect the wire to one of the auxiliary outputs on the auxiliary harness?
Reply
Save
Like
Honduh said:
Thats what the manual says too, my problem is I don’t know where these are supposed to connect to in the car though.
I guess I just dont understand the terminology. So do all the fused red wires just go to a constant 12v? Because I thought they each got hooked up to different ignition/accessory wires for their 12v.
All the red wires will go to the constant 12v in the ignition harness.
The green and violet wires make sense (connect to each side of my black/red (+) starter wire at ignition harness)
Yes
But then I also don’t understand what the orange and pink wires do exactly. You say pink is ignition out and orange is accessory out. So do I just connect the pink wire to my ignition 1 wire (green +) at ignition harness and the orange wire to accessory 1 wire (blue/red +) at my ignition harness?
Yes
Click to expand…
I guess I just dont understand the terminology. So do all the fused red wires just go to a constant 12v? Because I thought they each got hooked up to different ignition/accessory wires for their 12v.Also, I think your car has a second ignition or acessory wire not listed it your diagram. You’ll need to connect it for the remote start.
Reply
Save
Like
Honduh said:
I have no idea what any of this means.
Click to expand…
Lol I found the wire at the hvac controls but how do I test it to see if its momentary or latched? And how does it get connected to the alarm? Do just I just connect the wire to one of the auxiliary outputs on the auxiliary harness?Set your meter to the continuity setting. One probe goes to the defrost wire, one to ground.
Press the defrost button.
If the meter tones when you press the button, and stops when you release the button, it’s momentary. You’ll need to connect it to one of the aux outputs and trigger it manually with your fob after the car is running.
If the meter tones when you press the button and continuies even after releasing the button it’s latched. You can connect it to the -200ma ignition 1 output in the auxillary harness and it will turn on with the remote start..
See less
See more
Reply
Save
Like
Okay cool. Thanks man, you’ve been a huge help. The remote start is what was confusing me the most.
On all those power wires on the r/s harness I thought they needed to go to accessory and ignition 12v by the way they are described in the manual. So I was really confused what to do with the wires that are actually supposed to go to the accessory and ignition wires! This is my first time even looking at a alarm so its been alot to take in. Lol
I think I’ve pretty much got all the wiring figured out now. Only question I have left I guess is whats the best way to give a constant 12v to all these power wires? I have 3 for the remote start, one for the alarm brain, and one for the 556u. Should I really go to the ignition wire for all of them or is there a better method? I’d like to keep it as stealth as possible. But it just seems like alot to try and attach 5 power wires to same wire at the ignition harness. Just wondering if there’s a better way to do it?
See less
See more
Reply
Save
Like
The 556u and alarm12v leads can be tapped into the red 12v rs lead between the brain and the big fuse on that wire.
The other two 12v wires can be tied together right after the fuses on those wires. Then you only have two 12v wires to attach to your ignition harnes.
If you have more than one 12v ignition wire attach one of the rs wires to each 12v wire in your cars harness.
The ignition harness is already powering everything the RS powers, so there is not harm connecting the Alram/RS to it.
Alarms are just a deterrent to stop the smash and grab/crackead thiefs. Any thief that knows enough to get under the dash and disconnect this stuff is going to get what he wants.
It’s just a waste of time trying to get super creative hiding stuff, and it makes troubleshooting a nightmare if you have problems or want to add features later.
All your connections should be soldered, no butt connectors, no T-taps.
See less
See more
Reply
Save
Like
Reactions:
1
The car only has one constant 12v wire at the ignition.
Ill just connect all the power wires like you said so ill only have to make 2 connections on the constant 12v wire. Two connections shouldn’t be bad. There just isn’t a ton of room.
Just wondering though, is there a reason I can’t go one step further and tie the 2 fused power wires to the other red fused power wire with the alarm and 556u attached to it? That way I would just have to attach the one 12v wire at the ignition harness to give power to everything. Two wires isn’t a problem but might as well cut it down to just one wire if I can.
Reply
Save
Like
Honduh said:
The car only has one ignition wire. Ill just connect all the power wires like you said so ill only have to make 2 connections on the constant 12v wire at the ignition. Two connections shouldn’t be bad. There just isn’t a ton of room.
Just wondering though, is there a reason I can’t go one step further and tie the 2 fused power wires to the other red fused power wire with the alarm and 556u attached to it? That way I would just have to attach the one 12v wire at the ignition harness to give power to everything.
Click to expand…
Two wires isn’t a problem but might as well cut it down to just one wire if I can.
If there is only one constant wire in the car you can tie all the Alarm/RS power wires together. Just be sure not to cut off any of the fuses on the RS harness.
Reply
Save
Like
Cool thats what I’ll do. Ill just tie all 3 fused wires together just after the fuses and then tie in the alarm and 556u power wires between the fuse and alarm brain on the red wire. That way I’ll only have to connect the one wire to my constant 12v instead of 5. Much easier! Thanks!
Reply
Save
Like
SSinstaller said:
Also, I think your car has a second ignition or acessory wire not listed it your diagram. You’ll need to connect it for the remote start.
Click to expand…
I didn’t notice this post at first. I don’t know why the diagram I posted only shows one accessory wire, but it does have 2. The blue/red wire posted in the first diagram is accessory 1 and accessory 2 is a blue/black wire.
Only 1 ignition wire though.
So does this change how I’m hooking up the remote start? So far on the remote start harness I have all my fused power wires on the constant 12v wire. The solid pink wire is connected to my ignition 1 and the orange wire to my accessory 1. And then I didn’t use the pink/white and pink/black wires like you said. Is how I have it correct or does something need to be connected to my accessory 2 wire also?
Reply
Save
Like
Pink/White goes to accessory 2
Reply
Save
Like
I’ll have to wait a few days before I can even test any of this after I get it wired anyway. I went to Ace to get a key made and they won’t have any of my keys in stock until Friday.
Reply
Save
Like
SSinstaller said:
Pink/White goes to accessory 2
Click to expand…
Cool. I actually depinned that wire so ill just pop it back in and wire it up. After that, I think all I have left to do is figure out the defogger switch.
Just need to test it still.
Reply
Save
Like
They can program chipped keys?
Reply
Save
Like
Yeah, and its cheap too. Last time I had it done it was like 60 or 80$ (don’t remember exactly). Either way its alot cheaper than the dealer. I was thinking probably won’t have them cut it either, I really don’t like the idea of having a key in the car even if it is hidden.
Reply
Save
Like
And I just noticed when referencing the manual to put the wire back in that the pink/white wire is supposed to go to ignition 2. Thats still correct wiring it to my accessory 2, right?
Reply
Save
Like
Honduh said:
And I just noticed when referencing the manual to put the wire back in that the pink/white wire is supposed to go to ignition 2. Thats still correct wiring it to my accessory 2, right?
Click to expand…
It’s fine. Some newers cars are picky and need to see the voltage drop out during crank, but it shouldn’t matter in yours.
If it gives you issues with staying running you can program it to be a true accessory output, your install guide should have the programming instructions.
Reply
Save
Like
Honduh said:
Yeah, and its cheap too. Last time I had it done it was like 60 or 80$ (don’t remember exactly). Either way its alot cheaper than the dealer. I was thinking probably won’t have them cut it either, I really don’t like the idea of having a key in the car even if it is hidden.
Click to expand…
I’d have them cut it so you can test it properly. You can always have them grind down a few teeth to prevent it turning the cylinder after you’ve tested it.
Reply
Save
Like
SSinstaller said:
It’s fine. Some newers cars are picky and need to see the voltage drop out during crank, but it shouldn’t matter in yours. If it gives you issues with staying running you can program it to be a true accessory output, your install guide should have the programming instructions.
Click to expand…
Cool. It is a older car so hopefully it won’t be a problem.
SSinstaller said:
I’d have them cut it so you can test it properly. You can always have them grind down a few teeth to prevent it turning the cylinder after you’ve tested it.
Click to expand…
True, I didn’t think of that. I do have a dremel, I can always do that myself later. And depending on how I need to have the key positioned in the box I might need to cut it down some anyway. My oem key is a little too long anyway.
Reply
Save
Like
Ace still hasn’t got my key in yet so I haven’t tested the remote start but I should get one soon. I was thinking though while finishing up all my wiring, is there a way to bypass the clutch safety switch on the car with the r/s? The plug at the clutch is just unplugged for now so the car cranks without the clutch being pushed in. But I would prefer that it gets activated with the r/s so the clutch switch works normally still if thats possible.
I think it needs to see 12v to work.
And I can’t really figure out exactly how to place the ring from the 556u. On my car there is a plastic trim piece that goes around the factory transponder ring that holds everything to the ignition. There isn’t any room to get it in front like they say is needed. So what am I supposed to do? The only way the 556u ring can sit in front of the factory ring is if I glued it to the outside of the piece that holds the factory ring to the ignition. You would see the whole 556u ring which I doubt is how its supposed to be installed. I attached a pic so you can see what I’m talking about exactly. Only the clear plastic part is in front of the factory ring and the manual was real specific about it being in front of the factory ring.
-
20210919_104822.jpg
1.2 MB
Views: 114
See less
See more
1
Reply
Save
Like
21 – 40 of 50 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could
be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Please consider creating a new thread.Top
Viper alarm and remote start install
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
Okay everyone I’m not sure if this is an old question I tried researching but just couldn’t find sufficient information on the subject
I’m pretty good with DIY and in car electronics and I’m looking to install my alarm system and remote start for my 2001 325i and before I start
Anything things I need to know?
I’d like to know where the modules and items should be placed and a wiring diagram would be nice as well
Naturally I called everywhere in my area and further and no one can install or code this alarm system for me so I’m getting the software for such and will perform the installation myself I don’t want the factory alarm and I don’t have anyone alarm to begin with it’s just prewired I’d like the remote start and temperature feature that come with the alarm system because it’s approaching winter time and I work at the coldest parts of the day
Thanks in advance!
Reply
Save
Like
1 – 8 of 8 Posts
Don’t everybody answer all at once
Reply
Save
Like
Love to know myself on my recently purchased 01 330Ci vert
Reply
Save
Like
Things to know?
- I doubt there are remote start systems for BMW that emulate key, so you will likely have to leave the key near key coil. Better yet it will have to be tucked in someone else. Buy used coil from junk yard and tuck it in someplace with key taped to it.
- Similar to first point. Steering wheel lock. You will probably have to get rid of it if you don’t want to insert the key when you get into the car
- Relays are behind glove box or in ecu box in the engine bay.
- Some cheaper remote-start systems do not check if aftermarket key is near the car. This is bad! If you wire it up so that you can start the car with remote start or via traditional key, there is no way to stop someone from turning the ignition lock manually or just wiring it at ignition switch. Again, avoid this by buying a decent remote start.
- If you car is manual, newer clutch pedal sensor has four wires. One of them (black/blue) goes to immobilizer. It’s simple, 12ish volts, so hook it up to the wire that is hot when start is supposed to be spinning. As a matter of fact, it can be connected directly to much thicker black/blue wire at the immobilizer connector. Cruise control is not affected, at least with 4 wire sensors.
- Forget about leaving the car in gear if you have a manual.
Better yet it will have to be tucked in someone else. Buy used coil from junk yard and tuck it in someplace with key taped to it. 
As a matter of fact, it can be connected directly to much thicker black/blue wire at the immobilizer connector. Cruise control is not affected, at least with 4 wire sensors.See less
See more
Reply
Save
Like
Why not pick up a used oem alarm and have it coded? It’s a simpler install as your car is wired for it. Besides, buying it doesn’t put $ in Darrel Issa’s pocket.
Reply
Save
Like
I did this for years at Best Buy. The e46 is a fairly easy car;
First, get yourself a good wiring diagram.
I found this;
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=274183
Then there is the one on BMW Planet as well.
That being said, you don’T have to keep a key next to the column. That is remote start tech ca., 2005 or so. Thereafter they came out with either one of two things;
1) A transponder bypass
2) 556UW.
A transponder bypass, when compatible is absolutely 100% the way to go, and can get your car to do a ton of cool stuff.
Regrettably you cannot use a transponder bypass with the e46, so your other option is a 556UW. Go to the dealer and get yourself a valet key for your car, and then install it in the 556 UW, and then you’ll have to hide it somewhere in the dash.
A few install pointers.
1) ABSOLUTELY ABSOLUTELY ABSOLUTELY prep the remote state BEFORE starting disassembly. What does this mean?
First, plug all the wiring harnesses you will need into the unit. Thereafter, separate the wires you need from the wires you do not need. The wires you do not need, you can do 1 of two things,
a) Pull the pins on the un-unsed wires thus forever preventing the wiring harness form using these features, or
b) cut off unused wires with 1-2″ of slack. It enables you to reattach at a later date.
After you have separated the wires that you will use from the wiring you do not need, at this point locate on your diagram where you will grab all the wires. Thereafter start pulling the car apart.
Once you have removed all interior trim pieces necessary to complete the install (since you are pulling the gauge cluster — disconnect the battery in the trunk first) find a good spot where you can mount the unit which is out of the way and relatively inaccessible (for theft purposes). Thereafter go back to your remote start which should still be on your bench (I use a vice to hold it in place) and separate all the wires you will be using into the locations they will be going.
Using this electrical tape;
BMW part number 61136902588 (seriously the best electrical tape in the world and cheaper than even the cheap stuff)
Tape up the remote start so you can no longer see ANY exposed wiring (again, for clean install and anti-theft purposes) except for the very end the wire.
With all the required harnesses plugged into the unit (LED if so desired and programming button loose (I always unplugged them to prevent customers from screwing with their remove start themselves trying to add “extra” features they read about in the owners manual)) mount the unit where you want it to go (this will include the 556UW for the transponder).
Run all the wiring to their correct locations (back of the gauge cluster, ignition, kick panel, etc., etc.,) and then start SOLDERING the connections.
No, this does not mean you get to use this bullshit here;
or this **** here;
or this extreme bullshit here;
Its all ****, and one lose connection can cause a whole host of issues in the programming process, or later on in life as the car bumps around going down the road.
If you cannot out of pocket for a butane soldering iron such as this;
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-P…7272009&sr=8-1&keywords=butane+soldering+iron
Plus the $5 in butane and the $3 in resin core solder, then you shouldn’t even attempt this project.
Once its all soldered in place, whip out a nice thick pack of ZIP ties, and star zip tying the wires you tapped onto in the same direction as the “donor” wires. This puts any potential strain on the zip-tie and not on the connection. Thereafter zip ties the wires in place, plug the battery back in, make sure the car starts without throwing codes, program the unit, and reassemble.
Hope that helps.
See less
See more
3
Reply
Save
Like
556uw
I tried this option and no go. I admit i just twisted the wires together to see if it would work first. Is it absolutely necessary to cut open the antenna ring at the key or can you just tap into the leads to it?
I only have one barely working key for the 03 325CI E46. What else is needed to make this work? Can you get a key from ebay and remove the transponder, get it cut and use it after this is installed?
Reply
Save
Like
How to fit a viper alarm system on BMW E46 2000 318I
Reply
Save
Like
1 – 8 of 8 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could
be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top
Viper 5606V User Manual – ManualsBase.com
Viper 5606V User Manual – ManualsBase.com – Solve Your Problem
Instruction manual for Viper 5606V
- Home
- Viper
- Remote engine start module
- Viper 5606V
Device:
Viper 5606V
Size: 1.
2 MB
Added: 2023-05-15 13:47:27
Number of pages: 2
Print instructions
Download
How to use?
Our goal is to provide you with the fastest access to the Viper 5606V user manual. By browsing online you can quickly skim through the content and go to the page where you will find the solution to your Viper 5606V problem.
For your convenience
If viewing the Viper 5606V manual directly on this page is not convenient for you, you can use two possible solutions: . To start viewing the user manual Viper 5606V on full screen, use the Full screen button.
If you still don’t want to take up space on your device, you can always download it from ManualsBase. Viper 5606V Installation Manual
Advertisement
Advertisement
Print version
Many people prefer to read documents not on the screen, but in the printed version. The option to print instructions is also provided and you can use it by clicking on the link above – Print instructions. You do not need to print the entire manual for Viper 5606V, just some of the pages. Save paper.
Summary
Below you will find applications that are on the next pages of the instructions for Viper 5606V. If you want to quickly view the contents of the pages that are on the next pages of the instructions, you can use them.
Summary
Manual download
| # | Instruction manual | Category | Download |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Viper VSM200 Instruction Manual | Remote engine start module | 39 |
| 2 | Viper 5901 Instruction Manual | Remote engine start module | 474 |
| 3 | Viper 4205V Instruction Manual | Remote engine start module | 0 |
| 4 | Viper 5901 Installation manual | Remote engine start module | 0 |
| 5 | Viper 4706V Instruction Manual | Remote engine start module | 0 |
| 6 | Viper 5606V User Manual | Remote engine start module | 0 |
| 7 | Acura 2001 Integra User Manual | Remote engine start module | 0 |
| 8 | ATD Tools 5928 Specification | Remote engine start module | 0 |
| 9 | Audiovox Prestige Platinum Plus APS-610 User Manual | Remote engine start module | 0 |
| 10 | Auto Page RS-615 User Manual | Remote engine start module | 0 |
| 11 | Autostart AS-3472TW-FM User Manual | Remote engine start module | 0 |
Viper 5706V Security Remote System reviews and specifications…
854Z”> Published September 26, 2022
Do not buy this product! This seller.
Aaron L. Leburu
Russian Federation, Atlanta
Level 1
670 Review
48 Karma
Do not buy this article! This seller is not certified. The product comes with a lifetime warranty card, but VIPER is not covered by the warranty because the seller is not certified. You will lose your money as soon as you have technical problems with the product. After 6 months, I had a problem with the remote start battery. The batteries don’t last long enough to charge so I contacted Viper and they said we can’t replace the product because…
Pros
Cons
-
Quality
Not the basic, basic setup they are talking about.
Nick G. Gathings
Palestine, Jerusalem
Level 1
634 Review
38 Karma
an important step. On older cars, you can even get advice on how to tie all the wires together. The Vipers website is only useful if you are a trader. I installed this unit on my 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic. Lots of information on the net. But everyone wants you to join their websites for more detailed installation tips. I spent more time learning…
Pros
-
Good thing
Cons
-
Not working
Schedule an entire installation weekend.
Reginald P. Pitt
Level 1
1266 Review
43 Karma
Great product that can do a lot. If you have no experience in this matter, hire someone.
This is much more difficult than just installing the radio. It has many features and functions. You need a wiring diagram for your car and all you really get with an alarm is a very simple wiring diagram. Installation will take some time, so plan all weekend. Works great with my Ford diesel truck and remote start. Alarm…
Pros
Cons
-
There are nuances
Good product! But what else do you expect from the Viper?
Johnny S. Snyder
Level 1
764 Review
54 Karma
Great product! Makes people jealous wherever I go. I have extensive experience installing remote start and security systems, especially Viper. This is without a doubt the best product on the market. However, I figured they couldn’t be bought outside of a retailer/installer? The battery life of this new remote control is amazing.
I’ve had it for a few months now and I use it at least twice a day and I didn’t have to charge it in…
Pros
-
Remote starter
Cons
-
Fits
903 37 Published September 01, 2022
One year later in Remote Starters
Mark H. Harrison
Level 1
725 Review
32 Karma
I was looking for something with a long range and found it. I usually don’t take the time to review Revain, but this one deserves it. I wanted something that could start my car from work. I work in a prison, so this is a challenge. I bought it because people brag about its range. Other colleagues have to come out of recess to start their cars, not me. This thing will start my car right in the safes! I installed this device myself. It took me over 18 hours to install it in…
Pros
-
Anti-theft
Cons
-
Very expensive
9037 3 Posted on September 01, 2022 