Maytag gas dryers: Maytag Gas Dryers

Gas Dryers | Maytag

Top load or front load gas dryers — Maytag offers both for you to choose from to ensure your laundry pair gets the job done. Choose from Metallic Slate, Heritage White and White to match your washing machine.

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GAS DRYER MACHINES ENGINEERED FOR EVEN DRYING

Maytag^® gas dryers help evenly dry the whole load with features like the Extra Power button and Advanced Moisture Sensing on select gas dryers.

HANDLE TOUGH LOADS WITH A MAYTAG

^® GAS DRYER, BUILT WITH STURDY PARTS THAT DRIVE POWERFUL CYCLES

Dry even the toughest loads with Maytag^® gas dryers. Gas dryer machines provide powerful, consistent heat to help you get the job done. Select models are designed with sensors that monitor moisture and air temperatures, a wrinkle prevention option, a steam refresh cycle and a heavy-duty motor for fast spinning. Browse our selection of gas-powered dryers to find the right appliance for your needs, or compare the best dryers from Maytag to discover the best fit for you. Looking for a washer to complete your set? Check out our complete line of laundry appliances and accessories.

TOP LOAD GAS DRYERS

Top load gas dryers offer up more storage space on top of the unit as top load gas dryers cannot be stacked. Made to match top load washers, top load gas dryer machines reduce drying time and costs over time compared to top load electric dryers.

FRONT LOAD GAS DRYERS

Like the name suggests, front load gas dryers open from the front and are stackable with front load washers. Adding laundry pedestals to your front load pair will make reaching into your laundry machines easy.

GAS VS. ELECTRIC DRYERS

When deciding between gas vs. electric dryers, you’ll have to decide how you’ll want to provide the heat source for your dryer. Gas dryer machines use natural gas or propane and require a gas hookup while electric dryers use metal heating coils powered by electricity. Gas dryers reduce drying time and costs over time compared to electric dryers, which usually require less money initially.

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Maytag Gas Dryers | Maytag Smart Dryers

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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Gas Dryer With Extra Power – MGD5030MW
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Gas Dryer With Extra Power – MGD5030MW

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- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Front Load Gas Dryer With Moisture Sensing – MGD6200KW
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Front Load Gas Dryer With Moisture Sensing – MGD6200KW

Abt Model: MGD6200KWH
- Height (in) :
  40.69
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  29
- Depth (in) :
  28.38
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  7
- Number of Drying Cycles :
  11
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Maytag 7.4 Cu. Ft. White Smart Capable Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button – MGD7230HW
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Maytag 7.4 Cu. Ft. White Smart Capable Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button – MGD7230HW

Abt Model: MGD7230HWH
- Height (in) :
  43. 13
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  27
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  29.88
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.4
- Depth With Door Open (in) :
  45.88
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Gas Wrinkle Prevent Dryer – MGD4500MW
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Gas Wrinkle Prevent Dryer – MGD4500MW

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  28.25
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Pet Pro Gas Dryer – MGD6500MW
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Pet Pro Gas Dryer – MGD6500MW

Abt Model: MGD6500MWH
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- Depth (in) :
  28.38
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
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- Number of Drying Cycles :
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Gas Dryer With Steam-Enhanced Cycles – MGD5430MW
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. White Gas Dryer With Steam-Enhanced Cycles – MGD5430MW

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Maytag ADA 7.3 Cu. Ft. White Front Load Gas Dryer With Extra Power And Quick Dry Cycle – MGD5630HW
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Maytag ADA 7.3 Cu. Ft. White Front Load Gas Dryer With Extra Power And Quick Dry Cycle – MGD5630HW

Abt Model: MGD5630HWH
- Height (in) :
  38.75
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  27
- Depth (in) :
  30.75
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.3
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. Volcano Black Pet Pro Gas Dryer – MGD6500MBK
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Maytag 7 Cu. Ft. Volcano Black Pet Pro Gas Dryer – MGD6500MBK

Abt Model: MGD6500MBK
- Height (in) :
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Maytag 7.4 Cu. Ft. White Smart Capable Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button – MGD6230HW
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Abt Model: MGD6230HWH

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Maytag 7.4 Cu. Ft. White Smart Capable Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button – MGD6230HW

Abt Model: MGD6230HWH
- Height (in) :
  41.25
- Width (in) :
  27
- Depth (in) :
  29.88
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.4
- Depth With Door Open (in) :
  45. 88
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Maytag 7.4 Cu. Ft. Metallic Slate Smart Capable Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button – MGD7230HC
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Abt Model: MGD7230HCS

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Maytag 7.4 Cu. Ft. Metallic Slate Smart Capable Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button – MGD7230HC

Abt Model: MGD7230HCS
- Height (in) :
  43.13
- Width (in) :
  27
- Depth (in) :
  29.88
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.4
- Depth With Door Open (in) :
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Maytag 7.4 Cu. Ft. Metallic Slate Smart Capable Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button – MGD6230HC
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Maytag 7.4 Cu. Ft. Metallic Slate Smart Capable Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button – MGD6230HC

Abt Model: MGD6230HCS
- Height (in) :
  41.25
- Width (in) :
  27
- Depth (in) :
  29.88
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.4
- Depth With Door Open (in) :
  45.88
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Maytag 7. 3 Cu. Ft. White Front Load Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button And Quick Dry Cycle – MGD6630HW
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Abt Model: MGD6630HWH

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Maytag 7.3 Cu. Ft. White Front Load Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button And Quick Dry Cycle – MGD6630HW

Abt Model: MGD6630HWH
- Height (in) :
  38.75
- Width (in) :
  27
- Depth (in) :
  30.75
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.3
- Depth With Door Open (in) :
  51
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Maytag 7.3 Cu. Ft. White Gas Dryer – MGD8630HW
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Abt Model: MGD8630HWH

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Maytag 7.3 Cu. Ft. White Gas Dryer – MGD8630HW

Abt Model: MGD8630HWH
- Height (in) :
  38.75
- Width (in) :
  27
- Depth (in) :
  30.75
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.3
- Number of Drying Cycles :
  14
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Maytag 7.3 Cu. Ft. Metallic Slate Front Load Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button And Quick Dry Cycle – MGD6630HC
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Maytag 7.3 Cu. Ft. Metallic Slate Front Load Gas Dryer With Extra Power Button And Quick Dry Cycle – MGD6630HC

Abt Model: MGD6630HCS
- Height (in) :
  38. 75
- Width (in) :
  27
- Depth (in) :
  30.75
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.3
- Depth With Door Open (in) :
  51
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Maytag 7.3 Cu. Ft. Metallic Slate Gas Dryer – MGD8630HC
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Maytag 7.3 Cu. Ft. Metallic Slate Gas Dryer – MGD8630HC

Abt Model: MGD8630HCS
- Height (in) :
  38.75
- Width (in) :
  27
- Depth (in) :
  30.75
- Capacity (cu. ft.) :
  7.3
- Number of Drying Cycles :
  14
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How to repair Maytag dryer?

To repair a Maytag dryer, you must first identify the specific problem and then repair or replace any defective parts. Common problems with Maytag dryers include power problems, worn drum bearings, and defective heating elements.

If the Maytag dryer does not start, first check if the circuit breaker or fuse has tripped. Replace blown fuses and reset tripped circuit breakers. Inspect the dryer door to make sure it is securely closed and the latch is aligned. Press the start button to start the dryer. If the dryer hums when the start switch is turned on, check the switch for continuity and replace if necessary.

If the dryer does not heat up, check for a burnt igniter, heating element, or heating element assembly. Use an ohmmeter to test these parts for continuity and replace any of them if they are faulty. If the dryer does not heat up but the drum rotates, check the fuse. The thermal fuse helps prevent fire and keeps the dryer from overheating. If the fuse is blown, replace it accordingly.

If the Maytag dryer is noisy, the drum roller, drum bearing or idler assembly may be worn. All these details are hopeless and can only be replaced. Check if anything is stuck in the fan impeller and if the fan impeller bushing is worn. If necessary, replace the fan impeller to resolve the issue.

Mazda 6 stove does not heat up

What to do if the Mazda 6 9 heater does not heat well0056

Japanese automakers have always treated the provision of a normal microclimate in the car with due reverence. Mazda 6 is no exception in this regard – in good condition, its stove provides comfortable conditions for staying in the cabin even at temperatures of about 30 degrees below zero. But even the most advanced technology is not eternal, so sooner or later every owner of this completely modern and reliable car is faced with such a problem as insufficiently high temperature of the air coming from the deflectors (or, alternatively, weak interior blowing power). As a result, in severe frosts, the car does not warm up as it should, even if the engine has been running under load for a long time. It is often difficult to understand the causes of such a problem, since the correct operation of the climate system depends on the functioning of many of its components, each of which can contribute to the deterioration of interior heating. Let’s try to deal with these causes and ways to eliminate them, but first, let’s look at how exactly the car heater functions.

Causes of poor heater operation in Mazda 6.

How the stove works

In the vast majority of cars, the source of heating of the coolant, which is air, is the heater radiator, which gives off heat to the air mass as a result of a hot coolant leak through its tubes. In other words, the passenger compartment heating system is directly integrated into the cooling system, being its component. That is why there are a lot of reasons why the stove does not heat well in the Mazda 6. In fact, any malfunction of the cooling system necessarily affects the operation of the stove.

And now – about the scheme of the heater. The motor is known to get very hot during operation, and without its forced cooling, its life will be reduced to a single long trip – for example, from a car dealership to a parking lot. Engine oil, being a liquid, to some (we note right away, insignificant) degree can be considered as a cooler for intensively rubbing components of the power unit. But, having a not too high heat transfer, the oil is not able to provide the required engine cooling. But a special coolant, based on water with the addition of substances that prevent the coolant from freezing in severe frosts, does a good job of this role. Entering the motor, it cools its parts and heats up, therefore, in order to cool it, the antifreeze is sent to the radiator, where, under the influence of cool incoming air, it cools again.

When the heater is on, the coolant is directed from the engine not to the main radiator, but first to the heater, its smaller copy, where the heat of the liquid is used to heat the air entering the passenger compartment. Thus, the coolant circulation scheme can be divided into two circuits: a large one, when the coolant moves from the engine to the furnace, and then the front radiator, and a small one, when it bypasses the heater radiator. And if something in this well-established scheme starts to fail, this, first of all, is reflected in a decrease in the efficiency of the heater. Conventionally, all these reasons can be divided into five or six large groups, according to the location of the malfunction.

Breakdown of the thermostat

Usually, when a novice car enthusiast starts complaining to an experienced colleague that the stove in his Mazda 6 GG has started to heat up badly, he gets a completely unambiguous answer: change the thermostat. In fact, the reason may be different, but this nondescript device really often fails, creating problems for both the interior heater and the cooling system of the power unit.

The thermostat is a device that provides a quick warm-up of a cold engine – this is necessary in order to reduce the wear of rubbing parts, since too thick oil is not able to provide high-quality motor lubrication “for cold”. Thus, the thermostat opens or shuts off the circulation of the liquid in a large circle, excluding its passage through the main radiator, that is, preventing the liquid from cooling during the engine warm-up stage. The thermostatic element may be different, but in any case, the opening or closing of the passage is carried out by a valve that can jam (for example, as a result of contamination).

If this occurs in the open position, the coolant will always move in a large circuit, due to which the engine will warm up much more slowly, which can significantly reduce its life. If the valve jammed in a state close to closed, insufficiently warmed liquid will flow into the furnace radiator, and as a result of normal heating of the passenger compartment, there will be no. In such cases, the thermostat is simply replaced with a new one, and it is quite simple to determine whether it is really to blame for the poor operation of the heater: warm up the engine to operating temperature, open the hood, find the thermostat and carefully touch its inlet and outlet pipes: if the temperature difference is noticeable It is obvious that the valve is stuck.

Faulty stove fan

When we turn on the interior airflow (whether cold or hot air), this process is accompanied by a monotonous hum. This started the fan, forcing air into the duct system. Without it, when the damper is open, air will enter the cabin by gravity, that is, at a minimum speed. You simply won’t feel this breath, even if the car is moving at high speed. On the contrary, when the fan is running, it will be decent to blow from the deflectors, which ensures the supply of warm air into the cabin in sufficient volume to heat it. In principle, a fan failure can be detected quite quickly – for example, by the absence of characteristic noise from the electric motor, or by the absence of air flow from the main deflector. It is possible that the cause of the fan stop is a blown 40mA fuse (#24, Blower). If this is not the reason, we look at the fan itself and change it if it is faulty. If it is a worker, the reason is in the control electronics, and here one cannot do without computer diagnostics.

Heater radiator heavily soiled

Strictly speaking, this can’t even be called a malfunction – sooner or later this happens regardless of the conditions in which the car was operated. Of course, if you use low-quality compounds when replacing the coolant, or mix antifreeze with antifreeze, or even fill in water in the summer, moreover, from a water tap, then the radiator tubes will become contaminated much faster. The same effect is usually seen when sealants are used to fix leaks in the main or furnace radiator – it also produces a lot of sediment. In any case, the normal circulation of the coolant will be disrupted, which is why the Mazda 6 stove will not heat up as expected. Replacing the radiator is a radical solution to the problem, but if you are on a budget, you can try to clean the old one – this should be enough for a while.

Coolant leak

Similar symptoms will occur if the cooling system is leaking. As a rule, this happens as a result of weakening the fastening of the pipes, the appearance of cracks on them, or when the radiator leaks. As a result, an insufficient amount of coolant will also enter the heater radiator. The problem is aggravated by the fact that usually a decrease in the level of the liquid is accompanied by its replacement with air, which leads to the appearance of air pockets. Fortunately, the Mazda 6 has a coolant level sensor (it is located directly in the expansion tank), so a similar problem is detected quickly and reliably. It remains only to find the cause of the leak, eliminate it, add the required amount of liquid and, if necessary, eliminate the airiness of the cooling system. It is very simple to do this: put the car with a warm and running engine on a slope with the hood up and turn off the gas for about five minutes – excess air will leave through the plug of the expansion tank, which in this case will be the top point of the cooling system line.

Faulty pump

If the stove fan is used to pump air, the pump performs the same function, but with respect to the coolant, ensuring its continuous circulation. If the pump jams, the movement of the coolant along the line will stop, which threatens to overheat the engine. Such a breakdown is detected quickly, but most often the malfunction of the water pump is less pronounced. For example, the pump seal begins to leak – this is its most vulnerable spot. A decrease in the level of antifreeze will be accompanied by a deterioration in the efficiency of the heater. The second most common problem is bearing wear, accompanied by a characteristic hum, which will only increase over time. Wedging of bearings leads to a decrease in fluid pressure in the system, which again will affect the efficiency of interior heating.

Finally, the impeller can also be damaged (as a result of aggressive coolant or solid particles), which will be accompanied by a decrease in antifreeze pressure until its circulation stops completely. It hardly makes sense to repair the pump, especially if the impeller or the housing itself is damaged. If the matter is only in the stuffing box or bearing, you can replace them, because the pump assembly is quite expensive. In any case, you will have to dismantle the water pump, and this procedure is not so simple, requiring the appropriate skills.

Gasket failure GB

Loss of tightness of the head gasket of the power unit is not such a rare occurrence, accompanied by coolant leakage directly into the cylinders. In itself, this phenomenon is very dangerous, primarily for the engine, since part of the antifreeze will be mixed with engine oil, worsening its lubricating properties. This will also affect the operation of the heater. If you notice that the stove of the Mazda 6 2006 and later models has started to heat up badly, and at the same time the level of antifreeze is constantly decreasing, you should look for a leak. With a broken GB gasket, a leak is not always visually detected, but just such a case can be diagnosed by changing the color of the exhaust – it becomes white or gray from transparent.

Of course, replacing the gasket is a very responsible and time-consuming operation, but in this case the price of a new gasket is incomparable with the cost of replacing it, so it makes sense to do this work yourself.

Oven Error Codes

Maytag – Oven Fault Codes

What does the error code mean on my oven, stove or Maytag stove? If your Maytag oven is showing a code on the display, these fault/error code definitions will help you find and fix the problem by determining which part is faulty. Be aware that many of the error codes displayed by the Maytag Oven are due to a malfunction of the timer itself. The proper name for your Maytag oven timer is Electronic Range Control – ERC. We will explain more about ERC below. If you need help troubleshooting your Maytag oven, please post your question below with the model number of your Maytag oven and the exact error code shown on the oven display.

Maytag Oven Error Codes – Stove Fault Codes
Causes and solutions – How to fix?

Sometimes, even if an error or fault code indicates that some part of the oven is defective, it is possible that the timer/electronic range control itself is defective. The timer may not display the correct error code to pinpoint the problem. In most cases, this can be confusing. You can troubleshoot to see if the error code is a timer issue or an issue with the real part inside your oven. If you suspect that the timer or ERC is faulty, you can replace it and the error will go away. Photo of ERC clock block and/or control board below…

Maytag oven electronic clock control – ERC

Maytag oven control board clock assembly – also known as ERC

We have complete lists of error codes for all Maytag ovens / ovens / stoves below , for the most common error codes, Maytag C and D clock oven error codes, and Maytag Gemini Oven/Range error codes. Check below and find your Maytag oven model or type and check the error codes in this particular listing to find the part that needs to be removed and replaced. Below is a quick reference table of error codes for Maytag Oven error codes F0 to F9…

Maytag Oven Range Oven Error Codes Table

error codes for most Maytag ovens/ranges/hobs:

901 18 Oven error code Maytag F0
Cause of the problem: function key stuck
What to replace / clean / check: touch panel OR repair the ERC clock unit

Maytag F1 oven error code
Cause of the problem: faulty touchpad / membrane / watchdog timer on the board.
What to replace / clean / check: replace the touch panel, timer (ERC), membrane. This error is most often associated with the touch panel.

If an F1 error occurs – this test determines if the clock or touchpad is faulty:
SAFETY NOTE: Use caution when repairing or troubleshooting the oven as high voltage is dangerous.
1 – Unplug the mains switch or turn over and turn off the power to the oven.
2 – Access to the rear of the electronic clock or ERC ranger.
3 – Disconnect the touchpad ribbon connector from the electronic range control.
4 – Clean everything so that the oven does not short out when power is restored.
5 – Replace any covers that were removed to access the electronic range control.
6 – Switch on the oven again.
7 – Watch for error code F1 and listen for the beep.
8 – If error code F1 reappears and beeps, replace the ERC (Electronic Range Control).
9 – If you do NOT get an F1 error 1-2 minutes after the oven is powered back on, replace the touch panel.
SIDE NOTE: Some Maytag ovens have both the touch panel and the clock as one unit. This means that the F1 error code indicates incorrect clock control.

7 reasons why the gas dryer does not heat up

The gas dryer does not heat up? There are several parts in the gas dryer that may be defective and cause the gas dryer to stop heating. If your gas dryer is not heating up, see below for the most likely parts and problems that could cause your gas dryer to stop heating. We’ll talk about each part and what it does.

Gas dryer does not heat up

Remember, when checking components or replacing parts in your gas dryer, always make sure the dryer is unplugged and there is no chance of gas leaking when the gas valve is closed.

1 – Defective gas valve solenoid coils
They open the gas valves and allow gas into the burner.
Check that the igniter is on and off, but no flame.
If there is no flame, the gas valve solenoid coil(s) is defective and needs to be replaced.

2 – Blown fuse (on the blower housing or on the burner block)
The fuse is most likely blown, and if it is blown, it turns off the power to the burner.
This is most likely caused by a blockage in the ventilation system and the inability to release heat.
Remove the thermal fuse and test it for continuity with a multimeter.
If the fuse is good, then the problem is elsewhere.
If the thermal fuse is not open, it must be removed and replaced.
Clean the ventilation system of your gas dryer with a stick vacuum and remove all fluff.

3 – Defective igniter
Ignites the gas in the burner, creating a flame.
If the igniter fails, the gas will not ignite and the gas dryer will not heat up.
Remove the igniter and check for integrity with a multimeter.
If the igniter runs continuously, the problem is elsewhere.
If the igniter does not work, it must be removed and replaced.

4 – Dryer gas supply
Make sure the gas line is OPEN and supplies gas to the gas dryer.
Make sure the gas line is securely connected to the wall and to the dryer.
If you find that the gas supply line is damaged, remove and replace it.

5 – Faulty flame sensor
This component detects the heat generated by the flame.
If the flame sensor is defective, the dryer will not heat up.
Remove the flame sensor and check for continuity with a multimeter.
If the flame sensor is working properly, then the problem is elsewhere.
If the flame sensor does not have an open, it must be removed and replaced.

6 – Faulty high limit or cycle thermostat (located on burner assembly)
The high limit thermostat controls the temperature of the dryer and shuts off the burner when the dryer overheats.
Cyclic thermostat turns the burner on and off to control the air temperature.
If one of these thermostats is faulty, the burner will not work.
Remove the thermoses and check the integrity with a multimeter.
If the Thermosats have continuity, the problem is somewhere else.
If the thermostats are not working properly, one or both must be removed and replaced.

7 – Faulty or unreliable wiring in the gas dryer
A disconnected gas valve or incorrectly connected gas line means that the gas cannot enter the dryer.
If any of the wiring to any of the above parts is loose, not connected, or damaged, this will cause the gas dryer to not heat up.
Be sure to inspect the gas dryer and check ALL wiring, as sometimes it’s just a wiring problem causing the dryer not to heat up.

Gas dryer parts – fuse – thermostat

NOTE: If you need to see the DRYER REPAIR MANUAL, they are all here. All dryer repair manuals are for all brands of dryers. Use the service manual to understand the dryer and help you repair it yourself.

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