Studio Lights for Photographers: Everything You Should Know
This is a guide to the different types of studio lights available to photographers in 2023.
If you’ve ever asked yourself how do you light a small studio, we’ve got all the answers!
Continuous lighting and other types of studio lights can be expensive and confusing, but we promise to keep the terminology simple if you’re a beginner.
(After all, most beginners don’t have the confidence to build a home photography studio lighting kit from scratch.)
So let’s discover how to build a budget studio lighting setup for your next photoshoot.
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Table of Contents
What Lights do Photographers Use?
There are two different kinds of lights that you can use in photography: natural and artificial.
Natural light comes from the sun or the moon. While this provides you with free lighting, it has its limitations – first of all, timing.
On the other hand, there’s artificial lighting, which covers every other source.
If you’re thinking about dipping your toe into the world of studio photography, you need to learn about artificial light.
Artificial light is divided into many subcategories; the broadest one has to do with duration – it can be flash or continuous lighting.
In addition, each of those has various other options. If you need help understanding their characteristics to determine which lighting equipment to buy, let’s go through each of them.
1. Continuous Lighting
Credit: Pamela Sunders
- You can see the lighting effect in real-time
- Easier to manipulate
- Low cost
- You need to set your white balance according to the bulb
- Some of them can overheat
- Cheaper kits only offer a fixed lighting intensity
These types of studio lights work just like a regular house lamp: when you turn on the switch, the light comes on. Then it stays on until you turn off the switch, or the bulb burns out!
Continous lighting equipment is very helpful when you’re lighting a studio because what you see is what you get. If you don’t like a particular shadow or a reflection, you can move the lamp and see the effects in real-time.
There are three types of continuous lighting in photography: fluorescent, LED and tungsten.
An important thing to consider when you’re buying them as studio lights is the CRI (color rendering index).
This number indicates how ‘realistically’ it will reproduce an object’s color compared to a neutral light. In general, incandescent bulbs have a very high CRI.
However, when you’re buying fluorescent or LED lights, you should pay attention to the CRI because it’s more common to find them with lower values.
Most photographers recommend finding continuous lighting equipment that’s above 85, if not 90 – these products, of course, tend to be more expensive.
i) Fluorescent light
You can find fluorescent bulbs in different hues: white, green, yellow and red. They are energy efficient, and they don’t overheat, which makes them a popular choice.
Fluorescent lights are often used in portrait and product photography. To brighten larger areas, you can buy socket stands with multiple sockets.
As a continuous lighting source, these are extremely affordable and can be bought in full kits, single lights with accessories or single sockets.
Here are some recommendations:
- Kit: Impact 3-head fluorescent lighting kit with boom arm.
- Single head with accessories: Impact octa fluorescent kit.
- Single-socket: Raya single LED/fluorescent lamp socket with an umbrella holder.
ii) LED light
LED lights are a very popular type of continuous lighting. They don’t overheat, and they’re not very expensive. However, they’re not as energy-efficient as fluorescent bulbs.
On the plus side, you can change the colour of the light in most LED lamps, making them very flexible for creating different atmospheres, adding creative effects, or matching the white balance when combined with other light sources.
You can buy single LED lights, LED lighting kits and even light sticks suitable for light painting photography.
Recommendations for LED lights include:
- Best lighting kit: GVM 800D-RGB LED studio 3-video light kit.
- Single lamp: Aputure Amaran 100x Bi-color LED light.
- Portable lamp: Yongnuo YN320 variable color studio & on-camera LED light.
- Lightstick: Yongnuo YN360II.
LEDs also usually make the best on camera lights, especially lightweight models with adjustable color temperatures.
iii) Tungsten Light
These bulbs give a warm yellow light that we normally associate with indoor lighting. Most house lamps use this type of light or a mix of tungsten-halogen, which is more energy-efficient.
In a photography studio, tungsten is fairly well used, although it can overheat.
Tungsten studio lights produce a warm, natural color that’s very pleasing for portraits and still life photography.
The color temperature of tungsten lights is about 3200K, so make sure you adjust the white balance settings in your camera.
(You can also correct it in post-production, but I’m a firm believer in getting things as best as possible from the outset.)
A good lighting kit, especially to light a big set for film or video, can cost over $5,000. Fortunately, for a beginner photographer, there are some inexpensive options:
- Best budget lighting kit: ESDDI Adjustable with Accessories.
- Clip-on single light: Smith-Viktor 90-UL economy photoflood adapta-light.
- Single light: CAME-TV Pro 650Watt Fresnel tungsten light with built-in dimmer control.
2. Strobes, Flashes & Speedlites
Credit: Donovan Silva
- More power
- Better for freezing a moving subject
- Multiple intensities
- Not suitable for video
- You can’t see it until you take the picture
- Maximum sync speed
There’s a lot of confusion about the difference between strobes and flash. Some people consider flashes to be the small units that hook up to the camera’s hot-shoe and strobes to be the big units used for studio lighting.
Others use both terms interchangeably. As a reference, you can always check retail stores.
For example, the website of B&H – one of the largest, most trustworthy photography stores in the US – uses the following categories: Flashes & On-camera Lighting and Strobe (Flash) Lighting.
The best explanation I’ve found to clear the confusion is that they are both flashes, as none of them emits light continuously. However, some of them have the capacity to fire multiple bursts of light, which makes them a strobe.
Regardless, very few people actually make that technical distinction. So, to make this article as compatible as possible with stores and other literature you might read, I’ll say strobes when I refer to any external studio unit and flash to the small units that can be used on-camera.
Flash lighting needs to be connected to your camera to fire off when you press the shutter button. You can do this via cable or wirelessly. For them to work at their best, you can’t use faster shutter speeds than your camera’s sync speed.
In digital cameras, the sync speed is 1/200 for Canon and 1/250 for Nikon. However, this isn’t usually fast enough for action shots, so you’ll need to use a technique called high-speed sync – you can learn more about how this works in our guide to shutter speed here.
As I mentioned, I’ll be using this term to refer to the big units used for a photographic studio regardless of their stroboscopic qualities.
These types of studio lights can be self-contained (called monolights) or have the battery separated from the flash head (called power-pack systems).
Monolights are the best lighting choice if you work in a photo studio or an inside location. On the other hand, Power-pack systems are perfect for outdoor locations since you don’t need a power outlet.
Monolights are the most common, probably because they’re also cheaper. There are a few things that you should consider before jumping into the most inexpensive choice, though.
The first thing you need to decide is the strobe’s power, normally expressed in watts per second. An average range is between 200 w/s to 400 w/s depending on the size of your studio.
You can buy a more powerful strobe, but they’re usually more expensive. If you do this, make sure it allows you to turn down the power to the 200-400 w/s range should you wish to use it in a small studio.
If not, you might have difficulty controlling the overpowering light, and you’ll have longer recycling times in-between shots.
Speaking of recycling time, that’s another consideration to make before buying a strobe. This refers to the amount of time it takes to recharge.
Recycling time, combined with the flash duration, is an important factor if you want to photograph moving subjects. For portrait lighting, still-life, food or product photography, it’s not so important.
One more thing – with continuous lighting, what you see is what you get. That’s a great advantage that you lose when you use flash because you can’t actually see the light before taking a photograph.
However, strobes come with a modelling light that’s a continuous bulb, which can really help you build your setup, since the light allows you to see where both the light and the shadows fall on your subject, before using the strobe.
Ok, if you’re sold on getting this type of lighting equipment, here’s a list of recommendations:
- Flashpoint Studio 400 monolight.
- Flashpoint eVOLV 200 TTL modular strobe (Godox AD200 pocket flash).
- Godox DP600III professional flash studio.
- Godox MS300 monolight.
- Flashpoint 160w budget flash with built-in slave.
- Godox E250 mini studio strobe flash lighting lamp head.
Once you decide which product you want, you’ll need to consider how many units to get.
The good thing about buying them individually is that you don’t need to decide right away. It will depend on the type of photography you do and the lighting setups that you prefer.
To clarify again, even if monolights and power-pack systems are also flashes, this category is about the small units that can work on and off-camera. They’re also called a hot-shoe flash or flashgun.
Within this category of lighting equipment, you’ll find Nikon’s Speedlight, Canon’s Speedlite and Godox’s Thinklite, amongst other names that vary according to the brand.
Keep in mind that not all flashes are compatible with all cameras, so make sure you’re buying gear that’s compatible with your camera’s brand.
Flashes are commonly used on-camera connected via the hot-shoe. However, you can also put them on stands, connect them via remote triggers, and build a portable studio lighting setup with two or three units.
Some flashes have a TTL function, which is like an Auto-mode. TTL stands for “through the lens” because it gathers the information from the scene in front and adjusts the settings accordingly – it’s extremely useful if you’re shooting in c lighting conditions.
These units are more expensive, as you would expect. If you’re on a budget, you can buy a flash that only has a manual mode.
On top of their on/off camera versatility, flash studio lights are also more portable and often less expensive than strobe flash heads. Here are some recommendations for some of the most popular camera brands.
- Godox TT685C Thinklite TTL flash for Canon
- Neewer NW660 TTL flash for Canon
- Canon Speedlite 470 EX-AI
- Neewer 750II TTL flash for Nikon
- Godox TT685N Thinklite TTL flash for Nikon
- Nikon SB-500 AF Speedlight
- Godox TT350S Mini Thinklite TTL flash for Sony
- Godox TT685S Thinklite TTL flash for Sony
For more information before you head to the shops, read out guide: What should I look for when buying a camera flash?
Monolight Strobe Lighting Kits
Credit: Anna Shvets
- They often have tripods and modifiers included
- A great option to start up a studio
- Compatibility issues when you want to expand
- Quantity over quality
- Less flexibility
Whether it’s a strobe, a flash or a continuous light bulb, all studio lights that you get will need a set of accessories – from stands to light modifiers.
Plus, you’ll need more than one if you want to build more complex lighting setups. That’s why they’re often sold in kits.
The most common lighting kits for studio photography are monolight kits.
As with any other set of equipment, strobe lighting kits are often cheaper than buying the pieces separately. They’re a great solution for photographers who are just starting in studio photography.
On the downside, you don’t have as much flexibility as you would have when buying single pieces of lighting equipment and growing only as you need to.
Monolight kits come with two, three, four or five flash heads – each with its own stand. They also have a cable or remote shutter included so that you can connect them to your camera.
Finally, they have a few accessories – some of them have a snoot, others have a softbox, some others may come with a boom arm, and so on.
The price depends on the number of flash heads and accessories, but also the quality. You get what you pay for – some inexpensive kits may lack consistency. This means that either the color temperature, the power, or both can vary from burst to burst, so be careful with that.
Some good budget monolight kits are:
- Elinchrome D-Lite RX 4/4 to go (2 flash heads, stands, square and octagonal softboxes, translucent reflector and beauty ring).
- Godox MS300 D 3-monolight kit (3 flash heads, stands, umbrella, 2 softboxes, reflector, remote trigger).
- Impact EX100A (2 flash heads, stands, 2 softboxes, 2 grid reflectors, 2 sync chords).
- Flashpoint budget studio light monolight flash, 120w portrait kit (2 flash heads, stands, 2 umbrellas).
What is the best studio lighting kit for a beginner?
As you can see, there isn’t one type of studio light that’s perfect for all photographers – you need to find the one that best suits your needs.
Here’s a list of great studio lighting kits with different accessories, as well as different types and numbers of light heads for you to choose from.
- Interfit Honey Badger 320w (2 flash heads, wireless trigger, stands and softboxes).
- GVM P80S LED 4-light kit (4 daylight LED units, 2 umbrellas, 2 softboxes, 4 light stands, 3 backdrops, carrying case).
- Neewer photo studio strobe flash light and softbox lighting kit (2 flash heads, stands, 2 softboxes, wireless trigger, carrying case).
- Neewer continuous lighting kit with a background support system (2 single head holder, 4 fluorescent light bulbs, 4 light stands, 2 umbrellas, 2 softboxes, 3 colored backdrops, 6 backdrop clamps, background support system, 2 carry bags).
- Impact tungsten three floodlight kit with stands
I hope this guide cleared up some confusion you may have had about the different types of studio lights and the multiple possibilities you have for a studio lighting setup.
If you need help or have any more questions, you can post them in the comments section.
Also, feel free to share any tips or lighting equipment recommendations for your fellow photographers.
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Learning All the Basics of Studio Lighting in Photography
Have you ever struggled with bad lights, leading to dark and grainy photos? You’re not the first person to grapple with this and you won’t be the last. Luckily there are a few ways you can improve.
Which Type Of Light Is Used In Photography?
There are two main types of lights in photography: natural and artificial. My personal favourite is natural but that doesn’t have to be yours! My dislike of artificial light originated from a poor grasp of how a lighting setup works and frustration with my initial experimentation with flash.
Even after learning a ton about flash through Cole’s Classroom, I still prefer natural. However, there are times when using flash in my lighting setup has saved me from giving poor photos to clients, so it is definitely a skill worth investing in to get you started.
Do you want to take the course with behind the scenes video showing how to use flash? You can sign up for a membership here!
How Important Is Studio Lighting In Photography?
I would argue this lighting is the most important aspect of photography. If a client can’t see what is in their photo then it doesn’t matter how good the composition is, or how sharp the photo is, they will reject your work.
You don’t need the newest camera model available to get fantastic photos, but you do need to understand what your camera’s limitations are so that you can work around them. If your older model camera doesn’t handle low light situations well, then schedule your photo sessions during bright daylight hours.
Even photos taken during daylight hours can turn out poorly if you’re not using the right camera settings. What newer photographers sometimes call poor light is actually problems with exposure. Take the time to learn how ISO, shutter speed and aperture work together to get you properly exposed photos.
Once you master exposure settings, study how the available light is interacting with your subject. Are you getting soft shadows around your client’s eyes? Are there bright patches of hard light only hitting certain parts of your subject’s face?
Here you need to figure out where your light is coming from and move your client around accordingly.
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What Is The Best Light For Taking Pictures?
The best natural light, hands down, is the soft light produced during golden hour! Golden hour occurs when the sun is rising or setting. Often the light has a slight orange, pink or golden yellow tinge, which is very flattering to your subjects.
Golden hour light is also diffused which lights your client’s face much better than the directional light of the rest of the day. If clients can’t meet you during golden hour, then the next best thing is to choose a location with shade. During golden hour the sun is at a low angle giving you more freedom of where to shoot outdoors.
You can shoot in an open field, or by a lake side. When it comes to the best artificial hard light for taking photos, there is no one answer. Some argue that a basic studio lighting setup includes three lights. These three lights include a key light, a fill light, and a backlight, yet this depends entirely on your preference!
What Are The Different Types Of Indoor Studio Lighting?
First off, I will explain some common types of lighting equipment used and what the lighting equipment is used for. In the next section I will be exploring some photo studio lighting techniques. Studio lighting kits can be as complicated or simple as you like. Each continuous lighting kit can be used to light up a specific part of your subject, giving you different effects.
Just to be clear, many successful small business photo studio set ups involve only one or two lights or a hard light stand instead of a continuous lighting kit! So unless you have a lot of money lying around, I wouldn’t recommend buying all these pieces of lighting equipment or a lighting kit that comes with everything.
The lights in a studio will either be continuous lighting (always lighting up your subject) or strobe (where it goes off at the press of a button).
Many lights are mounted with a diffuser to soften the effect on your subject. Diffusers can be softboxes, oktobox, stripboxes and umbrellas. When looking at lighting kits, look to see what type of items they include.
Other devices will limit the direction a light travels in so as not to leak into the camera at the wrong spot.
If you could only use one artificial light source, you’re going to want to get a key light. Even with a multi light source set up, a key light is the “main” one. The key light does most or all of the work for continuous lighting up your subjects face. Any other lights used will compliment the work done by the key light. The key light is most often placed to one side of and pointed directly at your subject.
The fill light is used in conjunction with the key light. The fill light brightens the shadow cast on your subject by the key light. The fill light can be a hard light as the key light but generally you want a little bit of shadow on your subject’s face to show some dimension in your shot.
Hair Light / Separation Light / Kicker
These light is has different names depending on if your subject is a human or an object but they provide the same purpose. This light is meant to only fall upon a small part of your subject, the hair for example. The light beam is narrow so as not to hit a large part of your subject.
Of course, the closer your hair light is to your subject, the more narrow the highlight. So move your light further away from your subject if you want it to hit a slightly larger area. This light should be set as high as or higher than your key light. This light is meant to help your subject stand out from the background and potentially draw your eye to a certain part of the image.
With so many lights on your subjects, sometimes your background can turn out too dark. Here is where the back light comes in handy. A back light can also help eliminate shadow cast on your backdrop by your subject. The back light is most often dimmer than or equal to the power of the key light.
Camera Mounted Flash
Ok, so camera mounted flash isn’t necessarily studio continuous lighting, although I am sure some photographers may be using it in their studios. Flash does fall within the artificial lights category so I am going to talk about it here as one of your lighting options. The convenience of camera mounted flash is that it’s much more mobile than bulky light stands or using a secondary light.
This means you can quickly and somewhat discreetly move around and within crowds at concerts, wedding receptions and ceremonies. You can also swiftly and easily change which direction the flash is set off in.
Flash can be bounced off the ceiling to diffuse the soft light before it hits your subject. When the ceiling is so high that it doesn’t bounce the soft light back down, a flash diffuser can be used to soften the effect.
More than soft light, flash diffusers come in many shapes and forms, from mini softboxes to semi transparent plastic domes to reflective flat cards.
Flash is also often used outdoors as a fill light, or a secondary light, set at a low enough power so it only lightens the shadows without overpowering your stunning images.
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What Are The Different Light Techniques?
Now that you know what different lights do and what to look for in lighting kits, we can talk about how to place them to achieve certain looks. Some of these lights techniques are dramatic and others soft. There are no rules stating which situations you can or can’t use them in, however certain industries use certain lights techniques more than others.
- Split Light: Place your light 90 degrees to your subject’s face for lighting setups with this light. You will end up with one side of the face lit up and the other in dark shadow. The shadow line will fall vertically down your subject’s face, creating a very dramatic portrait.
- Rembrandt Lighting: For these lighting setups, place your subject slightly more than 90 degrees away from the light sources. Your light sources will also be slightly the head height of your subject. One side of the face will still be in shadow but one one triangle of light should fall on the cheek, no wider than the eye and not longer than the nose. The soft shadows cast by this type of light helps round faces look slimmer. This light technique is named after the painter Rembrandt because he used this type of light on many of his subjects.
- Loop Lighting: Place your light sources at a 30-45 degree angle from the back of your subject. A reflector is placed on the opposite side of the subject facing the light to bounce the light back onto your subject’s face. When the light is placed slightly higher than eye level on the opposite side, it gives a slight contouring look to your subject’s face. This type of light is very flattering on most people so it tends to be used a lot in portrait work.
- Butterfly Lighting: Place your light directly behind and above your camera, shining directly on your subject facing the camera head on. This light casts a butterfly wing shaped shadow side directly beneath the subjects nose. When the light is placed high enough using lighting stands, you may get shadow cast off the cheeks of subjects with prominent cheekbones .
- Broad / Short lighting: This isn’t exactly a technique, as is more or less used to describe how much of the face is in the light. When your subject’s face is turned slightly in one direction, your light is broad if it casts the side of the face closest to the camera in light. Alternatively, if the side of the face closest to the camera is partially in shadow, your light is classified as short.
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Photo studio SVET
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The rental price depends on the day of the week and the number of people in the studio (including children and the photographer)
Studio hour = 55 minutes
Weekdays 1400 rub/hour up to 7 people
Weekend 1700 rub/hour up to 7 people00/weekdays and 2200/weekends
Dressing room rent – 300 rub/hour
Dressing room is designed for 1 model and make-up artist. A big request to the rest of the shooting participants to come to the studio by the time of the photo shoot.
The dressing room is not rented separately
Studio booking procedure:
2. Send a message to whatsapp or sms to +79068006889, where you write the date and time for which you will be recorded
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For the correct display of the schedule, the “week” button must be selected in the upper right corner
SVET 9 photo studio rules0003
(by booking and paying for the studio – you agree to the terms and conditions of the studio)
- Registration in the studio is carried out on a 100% prepayment.
- Minimum rental time 1 hour = 55 minutes of hall rental.
- Minimum time for photo projects from 30 minutes, taking into account the number of people per hour, including the photographer.
- Studio rental starts from the beginning of the booking time, and not from the moment you arrive at the studio
- Mandatory CLEAN replacement shoes
- Clients are liable for damaged props, furniture and equipment. Moving any large furniture as agreed with the administrator.
- Filming with any animals is strictly prohibited
- The use of candles and sparklers is prohibited for fire safety reasons.
- The use of any confetti, crackers must be agreed with the administrator in advance.
- After the shooting, you need to return the studio to its original state, put things and furniture in their places, as they were when you came to the shooting.
- The studio is under video surveillance in order to document possible illegal actions that could harm the property of the studio.
- The administration is not responsible for the things left in the studio. We store no more than 7 days.
Cancellation / rescheduling of the booked (paid) time
If you cancel / reschedule the reservation three calendar days in advance (see the diagram), the prepayment is refunded 100%, from 3 to 1 day – 50%, less than a day before the shooting, the prepayment is not refundable.
SVET photo studio
Yekaterinburg, Mamin Sibiryaka st. 906 800 68 89 – link WhatsApp
We work by appointment
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