How to install a car stereo
Car stereo installation basics — In this article, we’ll walk you through the process of installing a new car stereo. We’ll cover:
- How to remove the factory stereo
- How to wire the new receiver — what you need to know to connect it right
- How to install the new car stereo
Please read over these guidelines before beginning the installation so you’ll know what to expect.
Get your toolbox
You’ll need a few tools to get the job done, but nothing serious. A couple of screwdrivers and a wrench or socket set for the battery cable are most common. You’ll also need some wire strippers, electrical tape, and a way to make wiring connections – which we’ll cover later. One of the more important tools you’ll need is a panel removal tool to help you safely remove the dash panels without scratching the surfaces or breaking anything.
Protect your trim panels by using the right tool for the job.
Watch this video for a step-by-step overview of a basic car stereo installation
If you’re looking for a more visual take, check out this video of one of our senior advisors installing a stereo. He walks you through the process from start to finish and shares a few expert tips along the way.
Removing the factory stereo
When installing a new stereo in your car, your first step will be to remove the old stereo. It would be easy to breeze through the removal steps and forget them. But don’t rush! You’ll want to make sure you remember the sequence of these steps, since you’ll be reversing this process to install a new stereo.
For detailed information on how to remove the factory stereo that’s specific to your vehicle, refer to your Crutchfield MasterSheet™ instructions, which walk you through the process step-by-step. Otherwise, you may use the general guidelines below. These instructions are free with a car stereo purchase, or you can purchase them separately for $9.99. Using MasterSheet instructions with the general guidelines below will prove to be a winning combo.
Before you begin, start by setting the parking brake and removing the negative cable from the car battery to prevent accidentally short circuiting something.
Your factory stereo will most often be mounted in one of the following ways:
- secured in a metal mounting sleeve by spring clips
- bolted to the dash with brackets
- mounted to a rail system inside the dash
Removing a spring-clip mounted radio
If the stereo is held in by spring clips, you’ll need a pair of DIN tools. Insert the DIN tools into the holes on either side of the unit until you hear a click. The tools serve to release the spring clips and also hook onto the sides of the stereo so that you can pull it out easily. Spread the tools apart slightly then pull the stereo out of the dash.
Removing a stereo that’s bolted in place
Sometimes, accessing the stereo requires the removal of one or more trim panels from the dash. You may have to (carefully) pry the plastic trim away from the dash (which is often secured by hidden pressure clips), or locate and remove bolts to disassemble other pieces of panel. Once you have gained access to the factory stereo, you should be able to see screws that secure the radio to the dash. Remove the screws and pull the stereo from the dash.
Removing a stereo attached to a rail system
Some vehicle manufacturers mount the factory radio to a guide rail inside the dash. Once the spring clips or bolts are removed, you can slide the radio off of the rail. Because this rail can sometimes interfere with the chassis of a new radio, it may have to be removed too. Something to keep in mind: once this is done, you often cannot reinstall the factory radio.
Stereos for older cars
American cars built before the early 1980s often came with a “shaft-style” stereo, which secured to the dash via nuts and washers to the right and left knobs. A shaft-style stereo must be installed from behind the dash. Getting it into position is the tricky part, since your vehicle’s wiring, heater controls, and ductwork may be in the way. One of our vendors, RetroSound, offers several vintage shaft-style radios with modern features on board and a versatile mounting system.
Unplugging the factory stereo
If your vehicle has (or once had) a factory stereo, or if it was pre-wired with a “stereo prep” package, there should be at least one plastic wiring harness behind the stereo opening. This plug connects the stereo to your vehicle’s electrical system and the speakers. You will need to unplug the factory stereo from the wiring harnesses, and unplug the antenna to complete the removal process.
With the old radio out of the way, it’s time to focus on the new one. That involves connecting all the wires and then installing the stereo in the dash.
How to wire a car stereo
If Crutchfield carries a vehicle-specific wiring harness for your vehicle, you can use it to connect your new stereo to your vehicle’s factory wiring harnesses. This will ensure that everything works seamlessly, just like the factory stereo did.
These harnesses usually include a color-coded wiring diagram for connecting the harness to your new stereo. Your new stereo will also include a radio wiring diagram in the owner’s manual. Refer to the two diagrams to confirm the car stereo wire colors that need to be connected to the adapter harness. The nice thing is that you can make these connections on a workbench, desk, or kitchen table without having to be inside the vehicle.
If a harness is not available for your vehicle or if the factory stereo plug was cut off, you’ll need to identify each of the car’s stereo wires and connect them to the corresponding wires of your new stereo. If you purchased your new stereo from Crutchfield, our Tech Support team may be able to tell you the colors and functions of your car’s wiring.
Options for connecting the wires
You’ll need to fasten bare wires together, and there are few ways to do it. Please avoid only taping the wires together — eventually the tape will dry out and fall off, exposing the wires and making it only a matter of time before something shorts out. Here are the options that will give you secure, lasting connections:
- Soldering creates a permanent, professional connection that ensures maximum current transfer. We strongly recommend that you use heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun to insulate the soldered connection. Most purists prefer this method, because it’s the most secure and conductive connection for the wiring.
- Posi-Product™ connectors offer a quick and secure twist-on connection for wires, and they can be re-used. It never hurts to have a couple of Posi-Tap connectors on hand for various jobs, too. This is our favorite way to get strong connections fast.
- Crimping is fast and fairly simple. If you crimp the wires together, be sure to use the correct size crimp connector — typical in-dash stereo wires are 18-gauge, but a few use heavier gauge power and ground wires. There are several types of crimp connectors, including bullet connectors, butt connectors, or crimp caps.
- Crutchfield ReadyHarness™ service simplifies your installation by letting us do most of the work for you. We will take the harness from your new stereo and your vehicle-specific adapter harness and professionally connect the two before we ship your new stereo. We’ll let you know if this service is available for your car when you tell us what you drive and select a new stereo.
Check out our wire connecting videos to see these different methods in action.
Crutchfield ReadyHarness servcie — let us do the work for you
Usually, it is best to make all of the new stereo’s wiring connections via the wiring harness, but if you have to make a direct power connection, you’ll need to know the difference between “switched” and “constant” power:
- A switched power source is only on when the ignition is keyed. Connect your new stereo’s main (switched) power lead – usually a red wire – to a switched power source, so that the stereo will turn off when you turn off the car, and not drain your vehicle’s battery.
- A constant power source is always on. Connect your new stereo’s memory lead – usually a yellow wire – to a constant power source, so that you don’t lose your radio station presets, tone control presets, and clock settings every time you turn off the vehicle.
Although rare, a few high-powered stereos require you to make a direct constant power connection at the positive terminal of your vehicle’s battery. This requires a heavier gauge power wire, an in-line fuse (usually included), and a ring terminal to connect the power wire to the battery clamp. You will have to route the power wire to the battery location, which is often through the vehicle firewall and into the engine compartment in order to make the connection at the battery.
Car stereos have eight wires for the traditional 4-speaker system – a positive wire and a negative wire for the front left, front right, rear left, and rear right speakers. Depending on the wiring configuration in your vehicle and the wiring harness adapter we offer, some of these may not be used.
A good ground connection is vital for proper stereo performance and to eliminate unwanted noise. If you are not using a custom wiring harness, look for a bare, unpainted bolt or screw that contacts the bare metal of your vehicle’s chassis. Loosen the bolt, slip the ground wire underneath (this is almost always a black wire), then tighten the bolt. If your ground wire doesn’t contact bare metal, your stereo won’t operate. A loose or weak ground connection can result in signal noise interfering with your music.
In-dash video — tapping into the parking brake wire
If your new stereo has a touchscreen or video monitor, you will also need to connect a wire to your emergency/parking brake wire. This wire acts as a switch to turn on the video monitor when the parking brake is engaged.
This wire can be in different locations in different vehicles, depending on the brake configuration. The wire is usually found where your parking brake is. In vehicles that have a hand brake between the front seats, you’ll have to remove the center console to get to it. In vehicles that have a foot-pedal parking brake, the stereo’s wire will need to be routed to it under that dash. Either way, it isn’t too hard, just take your time. And once again, Crutchfield’s award-winning tech support team can be a big help in locating it and helping you get to it.
Mounting the stereo in the dash
If the original stereo was bolted into the dash, you might need to remove the mounting brackets from the sides of it and attach them to the sides of your new stereo. More likely, you will need a mounting kit to install the stereo.
If a mounting kit is required, follow the instructions included with the kit. Sometimes you install the kit in the dash, then slide the new stereo’s metal mounting sleeve (if included) into the kit. Secure the metal sleeve by using a screwdriver to bend the sleeve’s metal tabs into place. In other cases, you attach the mounting kit to the new stereo first, then secure both in the dash with screws.
If your vehicle has an upgraded version of the factory sound system (such as a Bose or Harman Kardon upgrade, for example) or an integrated stereo/climate control panel, you will probably need a special factory system wiring adapter in order to install a new stereo. An adapter allows you to use a new stereo with your existing speaker system. And you’ll get it at a deep discount when you buy your new stereo from us.
This integration package lets you keep the factory LCD screen and touchscreen climate controls in select 2010 and up Ford Mustangs.
Once the dash opening is ready for the new stereo, hold the stereo near the opening. Connect the stereo wiring adapter to the vehicle’s wiring harness and plug in the antenna cable. Depending on the stereo you choose, you’ll also need to connect various things to the rear of the stereo, such as the Bluetooth® microphone wire, a USB cable, steering wheel control interface, or an auxiliary input cable.
Check your work
Slide the stereo into the dash opening, but don’t fasten it down just yet. First, test the stereo to make sure everything is working properly. It’s easier to fix a problem while everything is still exposed.
Note: You’ll have to reattach the battery cable in order to test the stereo, so if you disconnected any airbag warning plugs, be sure to reattach those before reconnecting the battery.
Turn on the power and try each source (AM, FM, CD, USB, etc.). Then adjust the balance and fader settings to check that each speaker is working. Once you’re sure the stereo is wired and working properly, finish securing it in the dash and reinstall any pieces of dash trim panel that you removed.
What about modifications?
In some vehicles, you might have to make modifications to the dash opening or the area inside (what we refer to as the “dash substructure”) in order to install a new stereo. If this is the case for your vehicle, we’ll warn you about it when you’re shopping on our site, and also in your Crutchfield MasterSheet. And once again, don’t hesitate to call our tech support crew if you need any guidance.
Ready to try it yourself?
By now you should have some idea of what is involved in replacing your factory stereo with a new, better, aftermarket stereo. So, it’s time to check out our Crutchfield Outfit My Car tool, where you can tell us what kind of vehicle you have. From there, you’ll be able to see the details about which stereos, speakers, and other gear will work with your vehicle and also see the installation gear you’ll need to do the job right.
And if you have questions, we’re ready for you. You can contact our Advisors via chat or phone.
How to Install a Car Stereo
Installing a head unit or replacing one can range in difficulty. Personally, I’ve spent as little as 30 minutes replacing a head unit, all the way up to 4 or 5 hours for the same job on a different car. There’s a number of variables that can dictate how difficult and time consuming the task really is:
- Dash and trim components – In our experience, the most difficult cars are typically german. Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Volkswagen. The dash and trim components are very stubborn and tight and difficult to remove.
- Wiring – Wiring can vary from car to car. This really depends on the number of features that the car has. For example OnStar on GM cars, or just an OEM amplified stereo. These are the things you need to know prior to wiring your car and ordering the adapting harnesses (we’ll get more into detail on this soon).
- Mounting the new head unit – This can be especially difficult if you choose to DIY. However, in most cases you’ll find that there are adapting ‘Dash Kits’ from providers like Metra and Scosche that will simplify the mounting and installation of the stereo.
At the end of the day, there are cars that I’d recommend upgrading or replacing a stereo, and cars that I would not recommend. In this guide, we’ll not only walk you through the process of deciding whether you should upgrade your car’s head unit we’ll walk you through the process if you decide to do it!
Should I Upgrade My Car Stereo Head Unit?
Before you buy and install one of our recommended best car stereos or gps navigation units, you need to ask yourself the following questions to determine IF you should upgrade or replace your stereo and what kind of stereo you should upgrade it with.
- First question – Does your car already have an aftermarket head unit? If this is the case, your installation is greatly simplified because the wiring and mounting is already done. All you have to do is replace it. Note that you may have the change out the wiring harness that connects into the back of the unit. In this case, just cut and match up the wires color for color.
- Will upgrading my head unit cause my vehicle to lose any features/functionality? Many of the new vehicles have interdependent systems that rely on the stereo. For example, my Ram 1500 has settings for whether the horn chirps when I lock it, whether the locks automatically lock after a certain period of time, if the lights stay on after I lock the truck. All of this is controlled through my factory head unit. Many vehicles have this. If your car has features like this that are dependent on the head unit, I’d recommend keeping the stock stereo. If you’re looking for more sound, you can do it without upgrading your stereo.
- Does my vehicle have multiple screens? In some cases cars have multiple screens that are interlinked. For example on many Hondas there is a head unit, then there’s a display screen that displays information from the head unit like the radio station or the CD. Replacing the stereo may render the display useless. There are cases where adapters have been made, you’ll want to research whether it has before you decide to replace your head unit. Or, if you don’t care go ahead!
- Why am I upgrading my car stereo? If you want a subwoofer, or louder speakers, a head unit isn’t your only option. If you want features that you currently don’t have, like Bluetooth or an AUX input, there’s also adapters for that. Figuring out if a replacement stereo is the best option for your needs is key.
- How large is my stereo opening? There’s two main sizes in head units: 1DIN and 2DIN. 1DIN is the smaller of the two. It can fit in both 1DIN and 2DIN openings. 2DIN is larger and is typically dedicated to units with a touchscreen and larger screens. Here’s an example of what a 1DIN (left) and 2DIN (right) look like:
If, asking yourself all of these question, you still feel it’s necessary to buy and install a new head unit, here are the next steps!
- Phillips and flat head screw driver set
- Wire Strippers
- Wrenches or sockets (usually 8mm, 10mm)
- Dash prying tool
- Stereo removal key (if needed)
- Volt meter
- Soldering Iron or Torch
- Heat shrink or Electrical tape
- OR Wire crimps/clamps (if you don’t want to solder)
1. Removing The Car Stereo
Well, the first step to installing your new head unit is to remove the old! To do this, we recommend you pop the hood and disconnect your battery before anything. This way, you don’t short any fuses. Finding a blown fuse can be time consuming and frustrating so take our word that this will save you time in the long run. Once you have done this, start to remove the trim from around your stereo to access the mounting screws. I’ve found the trim removal instructions from Metra to be very helpful when you do this. In many cases, trim needs to be pulled in a certain direction to prevent cracking or breaking it. Metra does a great job at helping you visualize how to pull your trim off and where. Go to http://metraonline.com/, scroll down to the vehicle fit guide and enter your car. Once you’ve done this, click on one of the dash kits (this is the piece of plastic that you’ll mount your head unit into. It replaces many parts of your trim to make a seamless fit for your new stereo). If you haven’t already bought one of these dash kits, we HIGHLY recommend you do. It will simplify your install by 10 fold. Once you’ve selected one of the dash kits, click on the PDF link under the “Documents” on the left. You’ll find full instructions for removing your trim step by step!
Your head unit will be mounted in one of two ways:
- Bolted to the dash with brackets and screws. This is the more difficult option to removing and where the Metra instructions will be extra helpful.
- Secured with mounting sleeve and spring clips. For this type, you’ll want to purchase our recommended stereo removal keys.
Sticking and Stubborn Dash Trim
It’s worth noting that removing trim is probably one of the more difficult tasks in removing your car stereo. You’re going to be lucky if you don’t hit at least one trim piece that isn’t a pain. In these cases, you really want to use a trim removal tool to wedge in between the gaps and gently work your way around the trim piece. Patience is key because once you break a trim piece, there’s no turning back. Start in a corner and work your way around the piece.
Once you’ve removed your trim according to the instructions, dismount your factory stereo and disconnect the wiring on the back of the unit.
2. Wiring Your New Car Stereo
If Metra or Scosche carries a wire harness for your vehicle, we highly recommend purchasing one along side the dash kit. Again, you can use the same link from Metra (www. metraonline.com) to find the one for your vehicle. In the case that you can’t find one, you’ll need to do a little research on the web to find a list of stereo wire colors on your harness and match them up with the corresponding ones on the car stereo harness. You can find a diagram here of aftermarket car stereo wires. This will help you match the aftermarket up with your factory ones.
If you find that there is a custom wire harness for your car, it’s very simple, just match up color for color the wires from your aftermarket head unit harness to your custom wire harness for your car.
Connecting the Wires
There’s two options for connecting the wires that you can use:
- Soldering – For all of the professional installs that I have done I would solder the two together. This ensures a permanent connection that will never short over time. It’s more time consuming though. Here’s how you do it:
- Strip the two wires 1/2 inch back.
- (Optional) Place 1 1/2 inch of shrink wrap on one side at least 4 inches behind the end of the wire.
- Overlap the two exposed wires and twist the two together until they are interconnected.
- Using a soldering iron or a soldering torch, heat the wire and feed in your solder slowly until it absorbs into the wire.
- Let cool and test the solder job by tugging on the two wires.
- After the wires cool, move your shrink wrap back over the soldered area. If you didn’t use shrink wrap, apply electrical tape.
- Do this for each wire until all have been connected.
- Connectors – You can use butt connectors or crimp caps as well. This is a much more efficient way to connect the wires but in many cases I’ve seen these fail after a few years on the road. In any case, you’ll either crimp the two wires together in a clamp by placing the wires in and clamping down on the crimp clam. Or your use but connectors to insert both ends into the connector and clamp both sides.
3. How to Install the New Stereo
Now that your wires are all completed you’re ready to install the head unit. Connect all of the wires first. Ensure that there are no exposed wires that may be in contact with any part of the vehicle. We recommend connecting your battery and testing the stereo out prior to fully installing it back into the dash.
Once you’ve tested it (and it works!) you’ll want to add the mounting brackets to your new head unit. If you have a dash kit, use the ones that come with the kit. If not, use the ones off of your factory stereo. If you have the dash and mounting kit, follow the instructions in the manual. If not, you’ll need to test where the new head unit sits, and adjust your factory trim to make it fit. This is normally a difficult task. I’d recommend using a Dremel to make cuts and adjustments to the plastic.
Slide the stereo into the opening in the dash, ensuring that the wires behind are tucked and not pinched. Sometimes this may take a few times when the vehicle has a tight dash opening. Tuck the wires back into an opening behind the unit.
Congratulations! You’re done! Let us know you you did and if you have any questions in the comments section.
Also be sure to check out our top rated lists:
Best Single Din Car Stereo
Best In-Dash GPS Navigation Unit
Best DVD/Multimedia Head Unit
Best Digital Media Receiver
In 2010, Kameron founded CarAudioNow as an outlet to write about his opinions on automotive and marine stereo products. Using his first hand experience in the field while owning and operating SC Autosound in Orange County, California, he began assembling lists of products, how to’s and more. He tested products in his garage and reviewed them them as he installed them in customer vehicles. The goal was to give people easy access to quality information about car audio and electronics and tech so that you don’t have to spend hours researching something like a car speaker.
Between 2015 and 2018 he worked as a Digital Product Manger at Motor Trend, working directly with the key editorial members like Mike Floyd and Ed Loh to build meaningful web experiences tailored to the automotive enthusiast.
Today he’s still assembling lists, testing products and writes articles along with the few members of CarAudioNow’s experts that he trusts. Apart from being the founder of CarAudioNow, he’s the primary editor and contributor as well.
Do-it-yourself installation and connection of a car radio (instruction + wiring diagram)
Installing a car radio is a creative process, but not very complicated. An experienced motorist, at least a little familiar with the basics of electrical engineering, can easily connect the car radio with his own hands. We will tell you in this article how to properly connect the radio in the car, and in what sequence it should be done.
It should be remembered that an incorrectly installed and connected radio will not only sound bad, but may even lead to a short circuit or even a fire in the car.
A good video instruction for installing and connecting a car radio in a car can be viewed on the video at the bottom of this page.
Incorrect connection of the car radio causes the following problems:
- When the car radio is parked, it consumes too much electricity, as a result of which the battery is constantly being discharged and there is a chance that the engine will not start if it is parked for a long time.
- When listening to music at high volume, the radio starts to “stutter”, there are significant distortions of the audio signal. Also, at high volume, the car radio can simply turn off.
- Radio settings are lost when the power is turned off.
All of the above problems in 90% of cases occur due to incorrect connection.
Features of installing car radios
According to the installation method, modern car radios are of two types: built-in and stationary.
- Built-in car radios are usually equipped with a removable front panel or a special shutter – devices that are simple, but effectively protect the radio from theft.
- Fixed radios are usually installed by car manufacturers on the assembly line. The original shape and non-standard sizes save them from theft.
When installing a car radio with your own hands, you need to consider the following features.
Firstly , you need to connect the radio only in accordance with the instructions. Failure to comply with this rule may lead to its failure or even a fire. In this case, you should not use the installation instructions for other car radios, since even one manufacturer may have different plugs and wire markings depending on the model.
Most radio tape recorders have a connection diagram on the top cover, and we will give a typical car radio connection diagram below.
Secondly, , you need to remember that the wiring of most domestic cars since Soviet times has been designed for the installation of radios and radios with mechanical tuning, which can create additional inconvenience.
For example, in “Zhiguli” or “Samara”, regardless of the position of the key in the ignition, voltage is constantly supplied to the power wire of the car radio. But when the key is turned in the lock, the electrical circuit opens for a fraction of a second, which is enough to erase all settings from the radio’s memory (if it is not non-volatile).
The process of installing and connecting a car radio
The process of installing car radios of different types and manufacturers is not much different from each other. To do this, the container without a radio tape recorder is installed in a regular nest and fixed by bending the metal petals outward along its perimeter.
- In modern cars, a special ISO connector is provided for connecting a car radio. The whole connection in this case boils down to the fact that you will need to insert the connector block of the car radio into the mating ISO connector of your car.
- In older cars, as well as in many domestic cars, the ISO connector is not provided by design. To install the car radio in this case, you will have to purchase the appropriate connector and connect it yourself. Fortunately, the wires on such connectors are usually marked and signed.
Let’s move on to connecting the car radio wires to the ISO connector. Take a look at the wiring diagram below. As you can see from the diagram, the left side of the ISO connector is responsible for powering and controlling the radio, and the right side is for connecting speakers to it.
Typical car radio connection diagram
The main stage of car radio connection is power connection. It is at this stage that most mistakes are made.
Power is connected to the car radio through a separate fuse using a flexible stranded wire with a cross section of at least 3 mm 2 . In most cases, it will be enough to use a 10 amp fuse, it will reliably protect the power circuit from emergency situations.
The radio is powered by three wires: yellow, red and black.
+12 V (yellow) – main power wire. The built-in amplifier is powered from it, and it also serves to save the settings of the car radio. This wire is connected through a fuse directly to the battery. It is desirable that the length of the wire from the battery to the fuse does not exceed 30 cm. On many vehicles, the ignition switches are in the ACC (accessory) position. When the key is turned to the ACC position, power is supplied to the car radio, interior heater and cigarette lighter socket, but the car’s ignition system is de-energized.
GND (black) – connects to the negative battery terminal. But this is ideal. Due to the low power of the car radio, it is allowed to connect the black wire to the car body. First you need to ensure good contact with the body, cleaning the junction from dirt and oxides. You can also use a contact lubricant to protect them from oxidation.
Yellow power wire can also be marked as B+ , BU , Batt .
It can be connected to the red ACC wire (bypassing the ignition switch) – this will allow you to listen to music without a key. But in this case, the radio tape recorder will constantly consume current, and if the machine is idle for a long time (from several days to 2-3 weeks), the battery may run out.
The following wires are responsible for connecting acoustic speakers to the car radio:
- FL – front left,
- FR – front right,
- RL – rear left,
- RR – rear right.
When connecting the speakers to the radio, be sure to observe the correct polarity, otherwise the sound will be of poor quality, since the acoustics in this case will work in antiphase.
For some car radios, the outputs to the speakers are duplicated with separate “tulip” connectors – it is advisable to use them if the acoustics installed in the car have the same connectors.
It is advisable to use special speaker wires to connect speakers. They often come with a radio.
And do not try to connect any of the outputs intended for connecting the acoustics to the “mass” of the car – you will be guaranteed the failure of the car radio!
The remaining wires in the car radio are responsible for controlling additional functions and equipment.
ANT (white) – antenna control. Acts as a power source for the internal active antenna, or gives a control signal to turn on the automatic external antenna.
ILL (ILLUMINATION) – is responsible for the backlight of the car radio. It is connected to the “plus” of the side lights power circuit.
MUTE – controls the muting of the sound from the mobile car kit. The sound is muted when this pin is connected to ground.
Parking Line – found on most car DVD players. Connects to the parking brake sensor. With this connection, you can watch DVD only when the car is on the “handbrake”.
After connecting the power, acoustics and antenna wires to the ISO connector, this entire bundle is pulled inside the container so that their ends with connectors extend into the car interior to a length convenient for work (approximately as shown in the photo at the beginning of the article), and connect to the appropriate connectors on the back of the radio.
The car radio must then be switched on and listened to. If everything works fine, then it can be inserted into the container until it stops (the latches on the sides should work).
Good to know when installing a car radio
When installing and connecting a radio in a car, unusual situations often arise that cannot be foreseen in any manual.
So, if you use a standard car antenna when installing a car radio, then sometimes the length of its wire may not be enough. Many cars are still equipped with antennas designed for the installation of old-style radio tape recorders. They have an antenna socket located on a “tail” that is only fifteen centimeters long.
In this case, you can try to connect the antenna blindly after connecting all other wires to the radio. If this fails, then, most likely, you will have to remove the console and stick the antenna plug by touch after installing the car radio in the container.
By the way, after about half an hour of such a “Kama Sutra” you will probably begin to think about buying a new car radio antenna.
If it becomes necessary to remove the car radio with a removable front panel from the container, to do this, it will be necessary to insert the two flat keys included with the radio until it stops on the sides of it. But before that, do not forget to remove the front control panel – it is usually detached with the “Release” button.
Video instructions for installing and connecting a car radio with your own hands
How to connect the radio | Automall
Drivers who like to listen to music while traveling often think about how to connect the radio in the car. This is not so difficult to do, the main thing is to understand the theory of the issue and act in stages.
How podklyuchit magnitolu
How to avoid errors
If the connection is made in violation of the rules, the radio will not work correctly, but even worse, it may completely fail. Therefore, after installation, you need to check its operation. The following signs indicate the presence of errors:
- turning off the radio when the volume is increased,
- deleting radio settings after turning off the ignition,
- distortion of the audio signal when the volume is increased,
- the battery is discharged even if the radio is turned off.
If everything is in order with the device itself, the problem may be a violation of the wiring diagram.
Types of radio tape recorders
This acoustic equipment for the car is produced in two types – stationary and those that need to be built in yourself. The latter are usually equipped with a special shutter or a removable front panel. These simple devices protect the instrument from theft. Installation of stationary radio tape recorders is carried out directly by the manufacturer during the assembly of the car.
If the driver is going to install the radio with his own hands, then he needs to take into account a few points. Installation is carried out in accordance with the instructions of the radio manufacturer and the technical documentation for the car.
Finally, it must be taken into account that domestic cars have the same problem as Soviet ones. Their wires are not always suitable for connecting the radio. You may need to change something first. The wires that are used for connection must meet certain requirements – they are made of pure oxygen-free copper alloy. Insulation is made on the basis of silicone. If such materials were not found at home, they will need to be purchased.
Radio connection diagram
- Despite the fact that these devices may differ significantly from different manufacturers, the scheme is generally the same. In the above diagram:
– power wires are marked in black and yellow, the cross section of which should be at least 2.5 mm,
– the red wire is AAC, it is responsible for turning on the radio from the ignition switch,
– pink and green acoustic wires can have a cross section of 1. 2 mm or more.
When implementing this circuit, care must be taken not to have a lot of twists, as they will increase the resistance and the sound quality will decrease.
You must follow this algorithm:
- first connect the black and yellow wires to the battery,
- then install a 10 A fuse at a distance of 40 cm,
- red wire is connected to the appropriate network. If the yellow and red wires are connected simultaneously to the positive side of the battery, the operation of the device will not depend on the ignition, but the battery will be discharged faster.
When connecting speakers, pay maximum attention to polarity.
The easiest way to install the radio is when it has standard dimensions, and the car already has all the power and antenna wires. Then connecting the device correctly is a simple task.
It is more difficult to install the device yourself if the necessary wires are available, but the radio has a non-standard socket.