Camera taking pictures: 10 Tips for Taking Better Smartphone Photos

10 Tips for Taking Better Smartphone Photos

Smartphone cameras have only gotten more phenomenal in the past three years, with companies beefing up photo resolution, adding more lenses, and integrating photo storage options that keep you snapping without fear of filling your camera roll. Ask anyone with an Instagram account and you’ll soon discover the camera is the killer feature on any smartphone.

If you’ve got the latest and greatest smartphone, you should step up your photography game to match. So here are some tips from professionals, along with some accessory recommendations, that will take your snapshot game from amateur to Ansel Adams.

First, start with a clean slate

Before you shoot a single picture, you’ll want to make sure your gear is in order. Often, that means doing a bit of pre-shot cleaning. “That’s the first rule for me,” says portrait and fine art photographer Henry Oji. “Always clean your phone camera lens before you take an image.

While wiping your lens on your jeans might do the job, using coarse materials, like a cotton shirt, or a napkin you dipped in water, may end up damaging your lens over time. If you’d like to keep scratches at bay, use a softer material — like a microfiber cloth — to clean any smudges off your camera lens.

A little framing goes a long way

Artfully framing shots may require a more creative state of mind, but that doesn’t mean you have to line everything up all by yourself. Luckily, you can employ your camera to assist you when it comes to framing and composing your shots.

In iOS, visit Settings and select Camera. From there, enable “Grid” to deploy a rule-of-thirds overlay in the Camera app. That grid will help you better compose your image, and keep your shot parallel with any vertical or horizontal lines in your shot. On Android devices, visit Settings > Apps > Camera, and select “Grid Lines” to choose between a rule-of-thirds overlay or a square overlay for perfectly framed Instagram images.

That framing is one part of composing the image itself — and so is making sure you’re not capturing any unwanted subjects while you shoot. “Composition, composition, composition!” says portrait and nightlife photographer Kenny Rodriguez, whose subjects rarely stay in one place for long. “I would suggest making sure that everything in the frame is there because you want it there.”

Ditch the digital zoom

As much as you’d love to get a closer look at that dog across the field, you might have to be content with a picture. But zooming in before you take the shot is not the solution. Digital zoom shots are simply cropped and resized images, unlike the optical zoom functionality you might find on a full-blown camera. Digital zoom will not only yield a grainy image, it will reduce the resolution of the overall photo and exacerbate any vibrations from your hands, leaving you with an inferior representation of that adorable canine. That includes shots taken on phones with multiple camera lenses, like the iPhone XS or Samsung Galaxy Note 10+.

In general, avoid digital zoom as often as possible — but knock yourself out with the telephoto lens on your smartphone, if it has one.

Look for light before making your own

The flash of an LED light from a smartphone doesn’t flatter anyone, no matter what pose you’re striking. And that glaring light coming from a single source will more often than not give your images a harsh, odd-colored look compared to light being diffused from one or multiple sources.

Instead of depending on an underpowered light to properly illuminate your subject, try to find other sources of light you can use, be it the waning sun, some indoor lights, or even some candlelight if you want to get artsy with it. If you’re really at a loss for light, you could always employ another smartphone’s flashlight mode to provide a more consistent light source.

Watch out for cloud storage shenanigans

Cloud storage services, like Google Photos or iCloud, can be a great way to take a ton of photos without worrying about how much space is left on your phone. But some of these services don’t automatically store the highest possible resolution version of your photos, or, if you take lots of pictures, you may have to pay a monthly fee to back up all your high-res photos. “A cloud-based backup service is actually one of the best investments you can make,” says architecture photographer João Morgado.

If you’re willing to sacrifice image quality for increased storage space, then feel free to send only low-res photos to the cloud. But if you want to hold onto every pixel, or prize image quality above everything, storing photos in their original format and paying the premium of a few bucks each month might be worth it.

Steady yourself — or use a tripod

If your shots of the city skyline look a little off-kilter, or your images during sunset seem a bit blurry, you should familiarize yourself with the photographer’s most useful tool: the tripod. “A good tripod … is absolutely essential, but for smartphone photographers it is usually left out,” says Morgado.

Sure, a steady hand is always better than a shaky one, but neither can match the tripod’s versatility when it comes to putting your own spin on your photos. “It gives you an amazing range of new techniques and photography styles: long-exposures, time-lapse, low light photography, light painting and many many other uses.”

Pocket-sized tripods are perfect for smartphone photography, and are often device-agnostic, meaning you can use it with almost any phone. You can even purchase smartphone cases with built-in mounting threads to stick them on more professional tripods or other camera accessories like shoulder straps.

Go remote with a shutter button

Hate setting a timer and sprinting into frame only to get an awful picture out of it? Sounds like you need a remote shutter, an ideal accessory for shooting images that require a more steady hand, or self-portraits. “Tapping the screen, no matter how careful you are, it will cause vibrations that will affect your photography,” says Morgado, whose architecture photography often requires long exposures. “It is a no-brainer for long exposures and night photography and it will for sure improve your technique.”

Some devices, like Samsung’s Galaxy Note series of smartphones, feature an included stylus that doubles as an inconspicuous remote shutter button, and can be concealed in your hand or pocket when you’re ready to take the shot. Not an Android fan? Remote shutters are pocketable, inexpensive, and connect to your phone via Bluetooth.

Or tell your (Android) phone to take a picture

Since your smartphone’s already constantly listening, waiting for you to demand its attention, why not make it take your selfies, too?

On Android smartphones, you can ask your Google Assistant to take a photo, selfie, or timed image and watch your smartphone open the camera app. On Google’s Pixel smartphones, you can have Google automatically detect the perfect moment for a photo, be it a big smile or a kiss, thanks to its AI-powered face detection features like Top Shot and Photobooth.

On iOS, Siri will open the camera app for you, though you’ll have to press the button yourself.

Experiment with exposure

Exposure can make or break any photo, and is the difference between showcasing a subject in all their splendor, or ending up with a shot that leaves them looking like a shadow of their real self. “Always tap the screen to lock focus on the subject you’re photographing,” says Oji. “This is particularly useful when shooting people against skies. It prevents you from having dark images.”

Of course, if that’s the artistic look you’re hoping to showcase to all of your followers, there’s an easy fix. “If you want silhouettes, just tap the sky, to underexpose your subjects.”

Portrait Mode works when there’s light

Using any device’s “portrait mode” feature, which simulates the shallow depth of field found in photos shot on professional cameras, will usually net you a more visually appealing shot. “It’s better for taking portraits of people,” says Oji.

While everyone loves the look of a photo from an expensive “real” camera, relying on it too much can hurt more than it helps, especially if your environment isn’t exactly conducive to portrait shots, like in dimly lit rooms. “But if you’re using an iPhone, use portrait mode only when you have sufficient light.”

Write to Patrick Lucas Austin at [email protected].

How to Take Good Pictures With Your Mobile Device

Before the days of smartphones — if you can remember such a time — taking a great photo was a labor-intensive process. Now, it’s easy to master how to take good photos with your phone — no fancy cameras or desktop editing software required.

Brands are catching on, too — these kinds of visuals remain important to marketing. But make no mistake: Taking a great photo on your smartphone is not as simple as pointing and shooting. There are plenty of bad smartphone photos out there — I’m sure you’ve seen at least a few.

What’s the secret to taking great pictures with your smartphone, then? As it turns out, there are a few of them. Check out these tips below to improve your smartphone photography game. (And once you have the photo-taking part down, check out some of the best photo editing apps for mobile.)

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How to Take Good Photos With Your Phone: 25 Tips & Tricks

1. Use gridlines to balance your shot.

One of the easiest and best ways to improve your mobile photos is to turn on the camera’s gridlines. That superimposes a series of lines on the screen of your smartphone’s camera that are based on the “rule of thirds” — a photographic composition principle that says an image should be broken down into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, so you have nine parts in total.

According to this theory, if you place points of interest in these intersections or along the lines, your photo will be more balanced, level, and allow viewers to interact with it more naturally.

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To switch the grid on …

  • iPhone: Go to “Settings,” choose “Photos & Camera,” and switch “Grid” on.
  • Samsung Galaxy: Launch the camera app, go to “Settings,” scroll down and switch the “gridlines” option to “on.”

2. Set your camera’s focus.

Today’s phone cameras automatically focus on the foreground of your frame, but not every picture you take on your phone has an obvious subject. To adjust where you want your camera lens to focus, open your camera app and tap the screen where you want to sharpen the view.

If you’re taking a photo of something in motion, for example, it can be difficult for your camera to follow this subject and refocus as needed. Tap the screen to correct your phone camera’s focus just before snapping the picture to ensure the moving subject has as much focus as possible. A square or circular icon should then appear on your camera screen, shifting the focus of your shot to all of the content inside that icon.

3. Use HDR mode.

High dynamic range or HDR, is a camera app feature that helps balance the light and dark elements in a high-contrast photo. It can be used to give photos a more creative, or artsy vibe, but it is commonly used to produce an image that looks similar to how you see it with your eyes.

Often with smartphone cameras, it’s hard to get the perfect exposure for light and dark areas. You could be taking a photo of someone in a shaded area outside against a bright background or in a room with low light against a bright wall. Setting the exposure to the background could make the person being photographed underexposed. Conversely, setting the exposure to the subject could result in the background being overexposed.

HDR prevents this by retaining both the details in darker areas and shadows and bright areas. The iPhone takes photos in HDR by default. For android phones, you may need to adjust HDRsettings manually.

4. Use natural light.

It’s hard to find a great smartphone photo that was taken with a flash. Most of the time, they make a photo look overexposed, negatively altering colors and making human subjects look washed out.

Take advantage of the sources of natural light you can find, even after dark. This gives you a chance to play with shadows, like in the second image below, or create a silhouette with other ambient sources of light, like traffic and surrounding buildings.

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Once you’ve taken the photo, play with the “Exposure” tool in your favorite photo editing app to see if you can make the image slightly brighter, without making it too grainy.

5. Focus on one subject.

Many of the best photos include just one, interesting subject. So when taking a picture of one, spend some extra time setting up the shot. Some professional photographers say that the subject shouldn’t fill the entire frame, and that two-thirds of the photo should be negative space — that helps the subject stand out even more.

But be sure you tap the screen of your smartphone to focus the camera on your subject — that’ll help to ensure that it’s focused and the lighting is optimized.

Pro Tip: Once you’ve taken your photo, you can use filters and apps to make the subject even more vivid, or to crop it to frame the subject correctly. The brightness, contrast, and saturation of the photo can also be adjusted accordingly — all from your phone.

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6. Hold your phone still.

While smartphones have given us the benefit of taking photos on the go, the cameras on our phones are still sensitive to movement. To help avoid blurry or warped photos, steady your camera first.

You can lean on a friend or wall to prevent your arms or hands from wobbling, or prop your phone up using books or similar objects to steady your phone.

7. Consider buying a mobile tripod.

Although mobile devices make it easy to snap any photo on the go, there’s never been an easy way to ensure the shot stays level and balanced when you shoot — especially if you want to be in the picture and not just take a typical selfie with your extended arm.

Mobile tripods give you the freedom to mount your smartphone for quick hands-free shots without lugging any heavy equipment with you. Most mobile tripods are barely bigger than your mobile device and can bend to any angle. Learn how these miniature tripods can help enhance your mobile video experience below.

8. Embrace negative space.

“Negative space” simply refers to the areas around and between the subjects of an image — and it can take a photo from “good” to “great.”

When you include a lot of empty space in a photo, your subject will stand out more and evoke a stronger reaction from your viewer. And what does negative space look like? It’s often a large expanse of open sky, an empty field, a large wall, or water, as in the example below.

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9. Find different perspectives.

Taking photos from a unique, unexpected angle can make them more memorable — it tends to create an illusion of depth or height with the subjects. It also makes the image stand out, since most mobile photos are taken either straight -on or from a bird’s eye view.

Try taking a photo directly upward and playing with the sky as negative space, like in the first photo below. Or, you can try taking it at a slight downward angle.

Pro Tip: If you take a photo and find the perspective is a little askew or tilted, use the SKRWT photo editing app to make the lines look clean and square.

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10. Play with reflections.

There’s something so idyllic about seeing the sky reflected in a body of water. There’s a reason why we love seeing that — our eyes are drawn to reflections. So look for opportunities to play with them in photos.

There are plenty of out-of-the-box places to find reflections — puddles, larger bodies of water, mirrors, sunglasses, drinking glasses, and metallic surfaces are just a few.

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11. Use leading lines.

In some photos, there’s a line that draws the viewer’s eye toward a certain part of the frame. Those are called leading lines. They can be straight or curvilinear— think staircases, building facades, train tracks, roads, or even a path through the woods.

Leading lines are great for creating a sense of depth in an image, and can make your photo look purposefully designed — even if you just happened to come upon a really cool shape by accident.

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12. Look for symmetry.

Symmetry can be defined as “a vague sense of harmonious and beautiful proportion and balance.” And pictures that contain symmetry can be incredibly pleasing to the eye — it’s also one of the simplest and most compelling ways to compose a photo.

In photography, symmetry usually means creating an image that can be divided into two equal parts that are mirror images of each other. That’s a bit different than reflections — symmetry can be found “in the wild,” as per the staircase picture, or you can set up your photo accordingly, like photographer Eric Christian did in the first photo below.

And remember — use those gridlines from tip #1 to line everything up perfectly.

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13. Keep an eye out for repetitive patterns.

Repetitive patterns are very pleasing to the eye — they appear whenever strong graphic elements are repeated over and over again, like lines, geometric shapes, forms, and colors. These patterns can make a strong visual impact, and photographing something like a beautiful, tiled floor can be enough to create a striking image. Other times, it’s more fun to keep an eye out for where they appear naturally or unintentionally, like with the congruent fire escapes on the left.

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14. Play around with color blocking.

Isn’t it cool when an entire photo is black and white, except for a single object? It turns out that yes, indeed, there are apps for that. One of our favorites is Touch Color — an app that automatically converts a picture to grayscale and lets you fill in the parts you want to colorize.

Color blocking can help to highlight the elements of a photo that you want to stand out, like a plant or something else with a bold hue. It achieves a similar goal as negative space, in that it can help a single subject stand out — but with color blocking, the photo’s other elements remain intact for a cohesive image.

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15. Avoid zooming in.

When you take a photo from a distance, it’s tempting to zoom in on something specific you’re trying to capture. But it’s actually better not to zoom in — doing so can make the photo appear grainy, blurry, or pixelated.

Instead, try to get closer to your subject — unless it’s a wild animal, in which case we would advise keeping your distance — or take the photo from a default distance, and crop it later on. That way, you won’t compromise quality, and it’s easier to play around or optimize a larger image.

16. Capture small details.

You may have heard the phrase, “It’s the little things. ” Sometimes, that also applies to photos. Close-up images that capture small, intricate, and delicate details can make for really compelling visual content. Keep an eye out for textures and patterns like peeling paint, a gravel road, or a tile tabletop.

Pro Tip: Use the “sharpen” tool in your favorite photo editing app to (conservatively) sharpen the details of your photo. You might also download the Camera+ app and use its Clarity filter, which is what The Wall Street Journal‘s Kevin Sintumuang calls the app’s “secret sauce — it adds pro-camera crispness to almost any shot.”

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17. If you use flash, only do so during the day.

Sometimes, using your camera’s flash can improve a photo — but rarely does it do so at night. Because dark shots reveal a much sharper contrast against your phone’s flash, it can make any flash look invasive and uneven

In already well-lit spaces, however, a flash can help to soften some dark shadows behind or beneath your main subject.

When framing your next shot, look on the ground or against vertical surfaces for any dark shadows you might want to remove. If you see any, flip on the flash manually in your camera app. Setting your phone’s camera flash to “auto” won’t guarantee that your phone will notice the shadows you want to get rid of. Just remember to turn the flash off again when you’re done.

Consider the importance of flash for enhancing or hiding certain lines and features the next time you’re shooting product photography.

18. Set your camera app’s exposure manually.

Another mobile camera feature you’ll want to set manually is your exposure. Tapping your screen when your phone’s camera is on doesn’t just refocus the lens on a new subject — it also automatically adjusts how much light the camera lets in. This, too, won’t always look just right. It’s best to adjust it by hand.

To change your mobile camera’s exposure by hand, open your camera app and tap the screen. When you see the lens refocus, you’ll see a very small sun icon and a vertical scale. Slowly swipe your finger up and down this scale to adjust the light level.

19. Create abstracts.

Abstract photos are meant to capture the essence of an object, or a series of them, without revealing the entire landscape as a whole. In other words, they serve the purpose of creating unique, surprising images from ordinary subjects.

This look can be accomplished by cropping an abstract portion of an otherwise normal photo, or by taking close-up shots of objects that leave the viewer wondering — in admiration, of course — what the subject might be. And subjects with patterns or repetition are great candidates for abstract photography, like in the photo of sliced figs below.

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20. Take candids.

Posed photos can be great for the sake of memories — happy moments with friends, family, or the occasional run-in with a celebrity. But sometimes, candid shots of people doing things, or people with people, can be far more interesting.

That’s because candid photos are better able to effectively capture the emotion and essence of a moment. One of the best ways to capture this kind of shot is to just take as many photos as possible. You’ll have more to choose from, and the best photos often happen when the “stars align,” so to speak, in a single moment — everyone’s eyes are open, one person is tilting their head just so, and you finally got a shot of your chronically closed-lip friend smiling with his teeth.

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21. Be unconventional.

Composition is a huge part of what makes a photo great, but so is the photo’s subject. Some of the most delightful and remarkable photos come out of cool, unique ideas. Images are more effective than text at evoking emotion from your viewers — that often means getting your photos to say something.

Try thinking outside of the box when it comes to what you’re capturing — your viewers could be pleasantly surprised by a cool or unexpected subject.

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Want more tips on creating visual content? Check out these examples of explainer videos.

22. Make ’em laugh.

Speaking of evoking emotion, sometimes the most memorable photos are the ones that make us giggle. The image below of an older woman wearing a brightly-colored shirt stating “Hi hater” is funny because it’s unexpected — and there’s a part of us that admires her, too. The second image of the dog toy on a dinner plate pokes fun at classic Instagram food shots, but it’s from a dog’s perspective. If you can make your audience laugh, they’re likely to enjoy your photo.

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23. Clean your phone’s lens.

A smartphone camera might be more convenient to carry around than a full-fledged photojournalist’s camera, but it comes at the cost of protection.

Your phone is usually in your pocket or your bag when you’re out of the house. All the while, the device’s camera lens is collecting all kinds of dust and lint. Be sure to clean this lens with a soft handkerchief before taking a photo. You might not be able to tell just how dirty the lens was until you start editing your picture, and making sure the lens is crystal clear before taking a shot can keep you from starting from scratch.

24. Attach an external lens.

Want to get really fancy? External lenses are for you. There are actually several out there that can be attached to the top of your smartphone’s native camera lens — from fish-eye to wide-angle lenses, these add-ons can bring an entirely new quality and perspective to your photos.

According to Wirecutter, the best camera lenses for iPhone photography are made by Moment, a manufacturer of mobile lenses. Start there, or do some research to find the lens add-ons that fit your smartphone photography needs.

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25. Don’t be afraid to edit.

Composing and taking your smartphone photo is just the first step to making it visually compelling. Editing your photos is the next step — and a very critical one, at that. Filters can be a valuable photographic tool, particularly when it comes to two goals: 1) Removing blemishes from a picture, and 2) making food look even more delicious.

Beauty filters are a common fix— and now, the iPhone photos app offers many similar filters. There are also apps like Pho.to, which can automatically retouch facial photos without a lot of work. And when it comes to those photos of your daily meals? One of the latest apps available is Foodie, which comes with its own set of filters optimized for different types of food.

But there are many other great photo and video editing apps out there for mobile devices — check out this post to see some of the best ones out there.

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Take Better Photos

Thanks to our mobile devices and the editing apps that come with them, we can now take high-quality photos and edit them without too many bells and whistles — all from the same device that we use to make calls.

Editor’s note: This post was originally published in November 2018 and has been updated for comprehensiveness.

How the camera works what is important to know and why | Articles | Photo, video, optics

There are so many different cameras with different functions now available that it is especially difficult to understand which ones will come in handy if you are just starting to shoot. That is why we decided to focus on novice and amateur photographers and tell you a little about how the camera works and what is important to know at the very beginning of the journey.

Details

The camera, like an organism, consists of various parts, but we will not unscrew it and talk about each microcircuit, we will simply consider those parts that have a direct impact on the result, that is, on the photo.

The camera body, or body, is essentially the camera itself. Its main role is ease of use, settings and management. Things like the display, the layout of settings and buttons affect the shooting process.

The lens is the eyes of the camera and it is responsible for our final picture. Each lens provides different functions, so it’s important to know the differences and choose your lens carefully for everyday shooting.

The Matrix is ​​a digital analogue of the film, on which everyone was filmed en masse in the decade before last. Like film, the sensor captures the light that enters the camera through the lens, records it and saves it to flash memory (usually a memory card). The size of the matrix is ​​fundamentally important for the quality of photography.

The flash card is our memory, it is the space where photos are stored. A novice photographer, as a rule, does not pay much attention to her, right up to the first work “in the field”. However, memory cards differ not only in size, but also in the speed of writing / reading. For a hardened reporter, for example, such moments can play a very important role. And for different shooting purposes, of course, you should pay attention to different types of cards.

Battery – As in any device, the battery provides immediate life and operation of the camera. This seems simple and obvious, however, later in this lesson we will explain why sometimes a smaller battery capacity can work.

Camera body

As mentioned above, the body affects the shooting comfort. First of all, it is the size. It is not always convenient to carry a huge camera with you in order to catch the right moment. It is not always convenient to deal with a small case. The choice of the appropriate size depends, for example, on the hands, the length of the fingers, etc. The easiest way to find out if a camera is right for you is to hold it in your hands, take pictures with it. In short, take a test drive.

The size of the camera, of course, affects both the location of the buttons and the ease of operation. Small soapboxes, for example, use a very simple layout because they have fewer controllers and buttons. Already on small SLR cameras, the difference becomes noticeable. And on flagships and professional cameras, all the buttons are located so that the user can reach them without making unnecessary movements. But then again, everything needs to be tried. For example, select manual settings and check what each one does. If you have already encountered shooting, immediately refer to the settings that you use most often. If you are new to this business, try and try to find the best option.

Of course, not the last role of the main button – and its location varies on different cameras. For example, on the top of the case, or on the front.

Lens

There is a lens for every situation, so it is especially important to understand the difference between the different models. The first and main difference is the zoom lens (variable focal length lens) and prime lens (fixed focal length lens). The zoom lens will allow you to enlarge the image or reduce it. They tend to be more expensive, larger and heavier than prime lenses. But they provide more options. Prime lenses won’t let you zoom in, but they’re cheaper, lighter, and smaller. In the cheap segment, it often turns out that prime lenses give higher clarity. But among expensive lenses there is no such difference.

The second lens classification is wide, standard, medium, tele and ultra telephoto. All these subspecies are based on the focal length of the lens. It is measured in millimeters and, in fact, means the possibility of increasing. The lower this figure – the further you can reduce the picture, the more – the further you can increase it. Each type can be described in a little more detail:

Wide Angle Lens

As a rule, any lens with a focal length of up to 35mm is considered to be such. The wider the lens (and the shorter the focal length), the more the lens can see. The widest are fisheye lenses, they usually have a focal length of 8-10mm. The usual width has indicators of 14-28mm. Wide-angle lenses not only accommodate more objects and space, but also distort the image, creating depth and giving some sphericity to space. Depending on the circumstances, this effect can play a plus or a minus. Some lenses correct for distortion.

Standard lens

The focal length of the standard lens is 35-50mm. Such a lens, in fact, catches the image as close as possible to what the human eye sees. While other lenses distort or flatten the picture. Standard lenses are called standard lenses for a reason – the photos taken by them seem normal in size and familiar to the eye. More often than not, the 50mm lens costs the least, while still delivering the good quality that expensive zoom lenses can provide. Standard lenses are also a compromise between different types of glass, although there are of course situations where other types of lenses need to be addressed.

Medium lens

The medium lens has a focal length of 60-100mm and is generally not suitable for everyday use. Of course, some photographers prefer 60 or 85mm for portraits, but more often than not, this distance is included in the size of the zoom lenses, where it can be simply used when needed. There are standard lenses with focal lengths ranging between 28mm and 70mm.

Telephoto lenses

Telephoto lenses, or telephoto lenses as the pros call them for short, come to the rescue when you need a strong zoom. All lenses with a focal length of more than 100mm are already included in this class, but focal lengths of more than 400mm are already ultra telephoto lenses. These lenses are heavy due to their size and are not cheap. They are used when it is not possible to get close to the object. They have their drawbacks – they are more prone to image blur and are not that strong in low light. Accordingly, those lenses that are lighter and have higher characteristics, such as image stabilization, will be much more expensive than simpler versions.

Telephoto lenses are a necessary item in the arsenal of a reportage photographer when shooting concerts, sporting events (football matches, etc.), in addition, they are used by the paparazzi in order to be able to discreetly shoot a character from afar.

Matrix and CPU

If we try to formulate the function of the matrix simply, it is responsible for the “filtered” light that passes through the lens, not to confuse ourselves, let’s call this light an image. The type of matrix and its size (larger or smaller) determine the result that we get – a photograph.

The first thing to say about the matrix is ​​that size matters. In miniature soap dishes, for example, the matrix is ​​small, so this factor is not so significant when choosing a soap dish. When it comes to cameras with interchangeable lenses, such as SLR or mirrorless, the sensor is crucial. The larger size provides better low-light performance, more control over depth of field, and more resolution in the final image with less noise.

Most SLR cameras use an APS-C size sensor. APS-C typically increases lens capability by 1.6x. That is, a 35mm lens on an APS-C SLR camera is practically a 56mm lens on a regular 35mm camera. This works well with telephoto lenses, but is not very useful when working with wide-angle lenses – not every one of them will give the promised width on an APS-C sensor. A 10mm fisheye will give the same result as a 16mm lens. For most photographers, this doesn’t matter, but it’s something you need to keep in mind.

Some expensive cameras (like the Canon 5D Mark II) use a full frame sensor. It is equal in frame size to 35mm film, while in APS-C the frame is equal to half of it. A full-frame sensor gives you all the benefits of a larger sensor, but loses 1.6x magnification. In fact, it gives the maximum proximity to analog shooting.

It is also important how many megapixels are in the matrix. Here, the inverse proportionality just works – the more pixels, the more noise is obtained in the picture. Therefore, the ratio of a small matrix – a lot of megapixels – this is not what you want from a camera. 6.3 or 8-10 megapixels is more than enough for an average camera. But again, do not forget to test, consult and look for a ratio that suits you.

Flash card

So we got to the different types of memory cards: they differ not only in size, but also in speed. Most cameras now use either SD/microSD or less commonly CompactFlash cards. The speed of the card is important because the speed of the camera itself is important. The card must keep up with the camera, for example, when shooting a large number of photos in a row, and especially when shooting video. In the case of an SD card, it’s best to use anything faster than 15Mb/s, CompactFlash is 133x.

Volume is always important, especially for RAW shooters. Such photos weigh more than JPEGs and allow much more freedom in post-processing.

Battery

So most DSLRs include a battery that will easily last all day. But compact cameras, on the contrary, are far from always able to allow such a luxury to the user. If you’re looking for a compact camera, it’s best to consider both the capacity of the main battery and the cost of a spare. Sometimes the camera includes everything you need, but its battery is not powerful enough, and a spare will cost much less than other options for similar cameras.

As a rule, everything is more complicated with a SLR camera – the battery will be more capacious, this is a fact, but there are also options that can be used to extend its life. For example, on older DSLRs, you can use either the viewfinder or the display, and the former will last longer.

Now there are more and more things to consider – display, touchscreen, frame per second and much more. However, the main parts remain the same and now you can get a little better understanding of how your camera works.

Why the camera on the phone has become worse

At the moment, without a twinge of conscience, we can say that the camera is almost the most important parameter when buying a new smartphone. You can put up with an IPS display, with a plastic case too, but hardly with a camera. At the same time, there are cases when, after some time, the pictures become dull, faded, various artifacts are added, and so on. And what happens, there will no longer be a smartphone to shoot like before? No matter how! In the article, we will analyze in detail the most popular camera problems and tell you about ways to solve them.

Understanding the causes of bad shots on a smartphone camera.

Gadgets that will come in handy on any desktop.

Contents

  • 1 How to clean the camera of a smartphone
  • 2 What to do if the camera on the phone is fogged up
  • 3 After the update, the camera has become worse
  • 4 Why the camera has become worse to shoot

9 0116 How to clean a smartphone camera

First, what needs to be done before each shot is to wipe the camera. Statistics show that most camera problems are related to the contamination of the module itself.

It is best to use cleaning cloths to clean the camera.

It is best to use a special microfibre cloth for this purpose. But if it was not at hand, you can use any other improvised tool that does not leave villi. Just do not use paper napkins and handkerchiefs for these purposes, some of them can scratch the lens.

What to do if the camera on your phone is fogged up

0127 fogged lens . Most often this happens due to large temperature changes or moisture ingress into the smartphone.

This is what a foggy smartphone camera looks like.

Attentive users noticed that when you go from a cold room to a warm one, small droplets form on the phone. The bottom line is that when the temperature drops below a certain level, the steam begins to collect in dew, which accumulates on the smartphone.

Moreover, it is important to understand that dew appears not only on the surface, but also on the insides of the gadget. Contacts are oxidized and hello, service center.

If you suddenly encounter a foggy camera, do not rush to panic. First, let’s try to solve the problem ourselves:

  • Thoroughly wipe the entire smartphone with a dry microfiber cloth.
  • Remove the SIM card and memory card from the phone, remove the headphones from the jack and leave the smartphone alone for several hours.

Caution : Do not charge your phone if the temperature changes suddenly. This may adversely affect its performance.

If the condensate has not disappeared after a day, I recommend contacting a service center. If the phone is still under warranty, try contacting the seller. I personally know cases when moisture did not get inside (moisture sensors did not work), and the camera fogged up. In this case, you should have the repair free of charge.

The camera got worse after the update

It’s not uncommon for the camera to shoot poorly after an update.

Many owners of Android smartphones often complain that The camera began to work poorly after update . Here is what one of the users writes:

The Honor 20 pro camera has become worse after updating to android 10. 48 mp are not the ones that were at the time of purchase. Bokeh effects, hearts, etc. are gone. Some kind of interference, waves in the main chamber. Video 30 fps barely shoots with noise and jitter, there is no stability at all. Why didn’t they warn in advance that the camera would deteriorate when upgrading to android 10? You must forewarn everything in advance. With such a camera, the phone is not worth the money that was given for it.

Not so long ago the author of AndroidInsider.ru Ivan Gerasimov already told you why he doesn’t like Honor so much. I think that the arguments in the piggy bank today will be added to users.

If the camera of your smartphone has become worse after the update, I recommend that you follow these steps:

  • Investigate if other owners of your smartphone have encountered the problem.
  • Check for an update in Settings.
  • Perform a factory reset (last resort).

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Why the camera has become worse at shooting

Water ingress into the smartphone is one of the most common causes of problems with the camera.

Other important reasons why the camera began to photograph poorly are the following:

  • Mechanical damage to the lens.