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www.CarStereoHelp.com – All Rights ReservedHelp with upgrading Bose system
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Hello All,
I am looking at upgrading the audio setup in my kia seltos. It came with Bose 8 speaker setup with a bose amp including a small sub in the trunk. The sound doesnt have much clarity, its an integrated system and only got 3 eq settings treble, mid, bass. When i increase the volume i feel like the system is holding back the sound.
I mean the bass is tight and miss the crispness.
I took a look at the speaker in front door. It looks like a 6.5inch 2ohm speaker with a very tiny mangent at the back. This is first experience with a Bose car audio.
I was if i could upgrade to better speakers while leaving the amp as it is. In my previous car i had alpine speaker and they were really gr8.
I am new to this so excuse any stupid questions.
I am also considering installing sound dampening matt inside the car. I dont want to go loud db wise but more crisp and clear sound with nice bass.
I am considering installing Dynamat or Focal BAM in the doors to start with. Took the car to few installers, all of their opinions were different.
- Replace front speaker was suggested to Focal ES165K2
- Tweeter has got issues or is pulled back a lot
- Need to install a DSP and re-tune the system was suggested hertz h8
- Need a digital to analog converter, to bypass bose amp, then install new analog amp and speakers
I dont want to break the budget in terms of upgrade.
I am just looking for an option to improve the sound quality.
Had a closer look at the bose amp, its some sort of digital amp as its footprint is very small and sleek. Its got two connectors automotive type. Assuming one is input and one is output. The input one is a yellow connector with 4 red and 4 black wires, along with smaller guage wires.
Reading this forum for a combo of Bose and Hyundai/Kia sounds like some sort of digital (SPDIF) signal.
Main concern with the speakers to Focal ES165k2 is that they re expensive and dont want to buy something without knowing if the current bose amp can drive them and the speakers will make difference. Would like to hear before commit to them. No dought about Focal speaker quality just the combo of bose current amp with these speakers not 100% sure.
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Just installing deadening and properly installing the factory speakers will likely make a noticable difference.
You can make mediocre speakers sound ok with a great install but it doesn’t work the other way.
I’m suggesting start with deadening (mlv, cld, ccf) and a stout mounting ring. If it does the trick for you great if not you’ve wasted nothing as you needed to do that stuff to progress. Next step would be replace speakers. You might not get a huge gain here unless you find 2ohm speakers to utilize the power the Bose amp. Most car speakers are 4ohm. If that isn’t enough then you can step up to integration with an aftermarket amp. If the amp didn’t quite do it then you would step in to the world of DSP. Then your in trouble.
This is a way to slowly step up without huge monetary give outs at once. It will also help you learn what you really want out of a system.
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Theslaking said:
Just installing deadening and properly installing the factory speakers will likely make a noticable difference.
You can make mediocre speakers sound ok with a great install but it doesn’t work the other way.
I’m suggesting start with deadening (mlv, cld, ccf) and a stout mounting ring. If it does the trick for you great if not you’ve wasted nothing as you needed to do that stuff to progress. Next step would be replace speakers. You might not get a huge gain here unless you find 2ohm speakers to utilize the power the Bose amp. Most car speakers are 4ohm. If that isn’t enough then you can step up to integration with an aftermarket amp. If the amp didn’t quite do it then you would step in to the world of DSP. Then your in trouble.
This is a way to slowly step up without huge monetary give outs at once. It will also help you learn what you really want out of a system.
Click to expand…
You can make mediocre speakers sound ok with a great install but it doesn’t work the other way.Stevens Audio for 2 ohm speakers.
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My recent experience with Bose OEM car speakers. No matter what the vehicle they seem to use the same speakers.
Sooo:
- Their 8″ midbass drivers are OK.
- Their 6.5″ midbass drivers are acceptable at the most
- Their 4″ midranges are OK.
- Their plastic dome tweeters are absolute trash
- Their 3″ midranges are absolute trash
- Their subwoofer solutions are absolute trash
- Their DSP amplifiers are OK
Go through your system and let us know what you have. Take photos if possible. We can help you better from there.
Ge0
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Ge0 said:
My recent experience with Bose OEM car speakers. No matter what the vehicle they seem to use the same speakers. Sooo:
- Their 8″ midbass drivers are OK.
- Their 6.5″ midbass drivers are acceptable at the most
- Their 4″ midranges are OK.
- Their plastic dome tweeters are absolute trash
- Their 3″ midranges are absolute trash
- Their subwoofer solutions are absolute trash
- Their DSP amplifiers are OK
Go through your system and let us know what you have. Take photos if possible. We can help you better from there.
Ge0
Click to expand…
Well, Bose has made a killing by dsp’ing the hell out of cheap speakers, that’s their whole business model.
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ckirocz28 said:
Well, Bose has made a killing by dsp’ing the hell out of cheap speakers, that’s their whole business model.
Click to expand…
So you have experience working with their latest stuff?
Ge0
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Ge0 said:
So you have experience working with their latest stuff?
Ge0
Click to expand.
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Ge0 said:
So you have experience working with their latest stuff?
Ge0
Click to expand…
I give you the legendary Bose 901, the shining example of the Bose philosophy.
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ckirocz28 said:
I give you the legendary Bose 901, the shining example of the Bose philosophy.
Click to expand…
Yeah, that old school bias ain’t going to help here…
Ge0
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Tamamontu, The yellow connector appears to be power and signal in. The green connector appears to be signal outgoing to your speakers, You may want to check your vehicles user forum to verify.
Ge0
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Thanks Theslaking, ckirocz28, for you comments and the steps in which order to start the upgrade. Front speaker is 6.5 2Ohm, i will take a look at rest of the speakers and get the dimensions and impedance for it.
Thanks Geo, yes the yellow connectors looks like a input connector.
Any recommendation between focal bam or dynamat xtreme.
Where to get Stevens audio speakers, i tried searching for its website but nothing is coming up, there is a facebook pare which got a website but link is not working.
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Dynamat Extreme performed well in testing and many like it. However I think Resonix is the best CLD.
I believe you have to message them through FB. Not really sure. Thought I read that lately. You might try member Eric Stevens on here. Not sure if he frequents this site anymore.
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Tamamontu said:
Thanks Theslaking, ckirocz28, for you comments and the steps in which order to start the upgrade. Front speaker is 6.5 2Ohm, i will take a look at rest of the speakers and get the dimensions and impedance for it.
Thanks Geo, yes the yellow connectors looks like a input connector.
Any recommendation between focal bam or dynamat xtreme.
Where to get Stevens audio speakers, i tried searching for its website but nothing is coming up, there is a facebook pare which got a website but link is not working.
Click to expand…
It appears their website is down, try Facebook.
https://m.facebook.com/stevensaudio/
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Finally got around measuring the speakers, one correction front speaker is 4 ohm and not 2ohm.
Center => 4ohm, 85mm
Front mid => 4ohm, 148mm
Front tweeter => not 100% sure multi meter showed 20ohm(apprx). There is a small cap in line so not 100% sure about this measurement. 32mmRear => 4ohm, 145mm
Center Speaker
Tweeter, rear speaker, front speaker
Small electrolytic capacitor
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I have install sound deading material and CLF inside the door. There is a plastic molded sheet which holds the windows in place behind the door trim.
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Hey everyone, so since the Seltos is so new, there’s very limited resources out there for upgrading the SX Bose audio package. I’m coming from a 2015 Sportage with aftermarket head unit, a powered JBL 12″ sub (JBL GT BassPro 12), and 4 coaxial door speakers. I did not do any of the work (just assisted a guy I paid) so my knowledge is extremely limited, even though it is a topic I am very passionate about. Long story short, it appears from reading online the newer cars with Infotainment systems are much harder to install aftermarket audio systems in. Part of my sales contract with my local Kia dealership was free installation on a new sound system by their technicians which keeps my warranty intact. Right now I am component shopping. I have picked out my LOC (AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter) and am struggling with everything else. Big questions are as follows:
1.
2. What size is the center speaker? I cant find it ANYWHERE and I’m not about to rip my dash apart to find out. What would be the best way to upgrade this? Would omitting this center speaker (or the rear cargo 6.5″ factory “sub”) help power the main 4 door speakers + tweeters better?
3. The “sub” that comes preinstalled in the back is just another 6.5″ speaker. If I am installing a new, powered sub into the vehicle, should I also purchase a new after market speaker to put in that slot or will have another active speaker in the cargo area mess up the sound stage?
Thank you all so much for your knowledge and insight.
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1 – 17 of 17 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could
be reviving an old thread.Top
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Like 5 tweeters and two 4 inch subs kind of crap.
Is it recommended to install CLF on this sheet aswell. 
Any information on the amplifier that’s already installed? Is it sufficient to power four 4 ohm door speakers, two tweeters, a center dash speaker and, potentially the 6.5″ preinstalled sub in the cargo area?
Please consider creating a new thread.
Use the Bose Connect feature to combine two of these devices into one stereo system. The comfortable handle is another big plus for a portable speaker.